The Buffalo News, N.Y., Janice Okun column

Most students of the subject know they have a long history. Cooking wings is not exactly a novel idea, even if there is very little meat on them. You find sweet/spicy chicken wings in Chinese cuisine; you know their history in the South, where they were considered poor people's food. You probab...

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Bibliographic Details
Published inMcClatchy - Tribune Business News p. 1
Main Author Okun, Janice
Format Newsletter
LanguageEnglish
Published Washington Tribune Content Agency LLC 27.09.2006
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Summary:Most students of the subject know they have a long history. Cooking wings is not exactly a novel idea, even if there is very little meat on them. You find sweet/spicy chicken wings in Chinese cuisine; you know their history in the South, where they were considered poor people's food. You probably also know how they became such a big deal in Buffalo, maybe through the efforts of the late John Young, who had a place called Wings & Things on Jefferson Avenue and, infinitely more famously, the Anchor Bar where Teressa Bellissimo made up a bunch at midnight one Friday. Fast-forward many years later. An Anchor Bar employee -- like Deep Throat, but not exactly -- sends me a recipe that called for deep frying nude wings, using three ingredients -- the wings themselves, butter and hot sauce. (Blue cheese and celery are accompaniments.) There's much more to this story. Buffalo wings have spread all over the globe; the brand has diversified. In culinary circles, "to buffalo" is now a verb. You can 'buffalo' shrimp, you can "buffalo" hamburgers, you can "buffalo" pasta. Just add hot sauce, blue cheese and celery.