FALL'S MOST WANTED

• Published in: Cosmetics Vol. 43; no. 5; p. 50
• Main Author: Dunn, Jill
• Format: Trade Publication Article
• Language: English
• Published: Mississauga Cosmetics Alliance Canada 01.09.2014
• Subjects: Artists; Handbags & purses; Skin
• ISSN: 0315-1301

THE LOWDOWN: Makeup artists retired summer's pastels and introduced exuberant flashes of fuchsia, yellow, green and blue on eyes. "The approach is now less of a one-dimensional feeling and more of a 3-D look," says [Trinidad Rivas]. Case in point: at Dior, makeup master Pat McGrath got theatrical, dipping her brushes into latex paint usually reserved for the special effects department. Meanwhile, at Chanel, simple but sharp fluorescent lines of Crayola-inspired bl ights like yellow, green and pink were anchored against the lash line and winged out to the edge of the eye to mirror the pop-art mood. (Note: such bold hues shouldn't float on the lid or be worn all the way to the brow bone - grounding the shade at the lash line is what makes it fall 2014). The rebellious streak continued at Kenzo, where makeup artist Aaron de Mey paid homage to the film Blue Velvet, recreating Isabella Rossellini's iconic frosty blue shadow with a thick swoosh of cobalt. "I prefer to see 'hits' of one shade so the face doesn't get overly complicated," says [Jane McKay]. AT SEEN AT: Manish Arora, Custo Barcelona, Gucci, Prada, Versace THE LOWDOWN: With the swingin' '60s vibe in full effect on runways, it seemed the shorter the hemline, the larger the lashes. At Prada, "clogged lashes" - where dramatic coats were piled on until lashes fused together - was Miuccia's mascara directive. "Spiky lashes, as opposed to full, thick ones, allow more light to Alter through," says McKay. "They don't weigh the eye down or accentuate any dark shadows underneath." At [Jonathan Saunders], colour was concentrated at the centre of the lips and bloomed to blurred-out edges for a soft-focus effect. Over at [Rebecca Minkoff], makeup artist Sarah Lucero, Stila's global director of education and artistry, created a "burnt berry" power pout by mixing blackberry and brown for a '90s edge. (Lorde would approve.) At Carolina Herrera, makeup artist Diane Kendal painted lips a boysenberry hue and used a tissue to blot as the finishing touch. The result? [BERRY LIPS] were semi-matte, not flat. "This type of pink-meets-plum lip suits just about everyone," says Rivas. "It will look more sensual on skin with a golden or olive undertone, a little more stark if you're fair." No matter what shade on the berry spectrum suits you, there's one non-negotiable: lacquered lips look best paired with full, Cara Delevingne-inspired brows.