SHOPPER'S WORLD; ON THE RIGHT SCENT SINCE THE POWDERED WIG

• Published in: The New York times
• Main Authors: House., Sandra McElwaine, SANDRA McELWAINE, a journalist based in Washington, is writing a book about the Walker spy case that is to be published by Arbor
• Format: Newspaper Article
• Language: English
• Published: New York, N.Y New York Times Company 16.03.1986
• Edition: Late Edition (East Coast)
• Subjects: Floris, J; Floris, Juan; MCELWAINE, SANDRA; RETAIL STORES AND TRADE; TRAVEL AND VACATIONS; LONDON (ENG)
• ISSN: 0362-4331

When Floris set up shop at 89 Jermyn Street, now one of London's most exclusive shopping streets, it was a narrow cobbled thoroughfare often filled with coaches, sedan chairs and running footmen. The street was a fashionable location for gentlemen's chambers where wealthy landowners took rooms on brief visits to town and young men of means kept bachelor apartments. The whole section bustled with activity both day and night - diplomats presenting their credentials at the Court of St. James's, and men of letters exchanging news in coffee houses and arguing the nights away at imposing new clubs. All needed their wigs powdered and beards shaved, and Juan Floris, providing good service, began to prosper. Wig powder, potpourri, brilliantine, unbleached sponges and ivory and bone toothbrushes were gradually added to the inventory. The Duke of Wellington bought his toothbrushes for 2 shillings apiece, and potpourri became a favorite of Florence Nightingale. One of the family's most prized possessions is the black-bordered handwritten letter from Florence Nightingale, dated July 25, 1863, describing army conditions in India, and thanking Mr. Floris for his ''sweet smelling nosegay.'' During the reign of Queen Victoria, the shop - which by this time had expanded to the entire building -marketed 175 fragrances. (Today these have been reduced to 14.) One dusty leatherbound ledger contains the Queen's order of pate miel, a skin cream that was delivered regularly to her various palaces. Seven years ago, the store introduced its first new scent in 20 years, Florissa, a blend of lilac, lily of the valley and English rose, and it also started a line of men's toiletries called Elite. Though many consider toiletries for men a recent innovation, Floris had one order that dated back to 1810 for ''lavinder water'' for Adm. George Wilson, who had been a member of Nelson's fleet.