EATS QUEENS Edition 1

As soon as you walk in, the smell of the fragrant, piquant spices that pepper Indian cuisine floods over you. In the back, a large television often plays mesmerizing Indian pop music videos. The diner has been remodeled but retains much of its original design, with large and small booths, as well as...

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Bibliographic Details
Published inNewsday
Main Author Rose Kim. Rose Kim is a regular contributor to Eats
Format Newspaper Article
LanguageEnglish
Published Long Island, N.Y Newsday LLC 16.01.2004
EditionCombined editions
Online AccessGet full text

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Summary:As soon as you walk in, the smell of the fragrant, piquant spices that pepper Indian cuisine floods over you. In the back, a large television often plays mesmerizing Indian pop music videos. The diner has been remodeled but retains much of its original design, with large and small booths, as well as a counter and stools. Breads are delicious. I liked the plain nan, a puffy, plate-size round of freshly baked bread, slightly browned and blistered; it was good by itself or dipped in the sauce of other dishes. Onion kulcha, nan stuffed with chopped onion and ginger, also was good, with a little more bite. Vegetarians can eat happily here. Sag paneer, a dish of creamed spinach and homemade cheese, was great; the spinach, sauteed with onions, garlic and ginger, was thick and creamy, and the homemade cheese had a slightly chewy texture and a delicate, milky flavor. Another vegetarian dish, aloo gobhi, had velvety new potatoes and tender cauliflower in a mildly spicy sauce. Dal makhani, small black lentils slowly simmered with tomatoes, onions, garlic, ginger and spices, also was very good.