CRIMPED YARN, EXTRA-FINE DEEPLY DYEABLE YARN, CHAMOIS-LIKE WOVEN FABRIC INCLUDING EXTRA-FINE DEEPLY DYEABLE YARN, AND METHOD FOR PRODUCING CRIMPED YARN

• Main Authors: KISHIDA YASUO, OBAYASHI TETSUHARU
• Format: Patent
• Language: English; Japanese
• Published: 09.05.2016
• Subjects: CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, ORYARNS; FINISHING OR DRESSING OF FILAMENTS, YARNS, THREADS, CORDS,ROPES OR THE LIKE; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; LAUNDERING; LOOMS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; METHODS OF WEAVING; TEXTILES; TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS,FABRICS, FEATHERS, OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS; WARPING OR BEAMING; WEAVING; WOVEN FABRICS; YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a crimped yarn for obtaining an extra-fine deeply dyeable yarn which is excellent in deep dyeability and can express a deep hue and tailored appearance, and which can reveal a chamois-like texture (a soft and smooth touch, an elegant coat of fur, and a flexible texture) when subjected to raising processing.SOLUTION: A crimped yarn is obtained in such a way that a polyester conjugated undrawn yarn is subjected to heat shrinkage treatment under a tensile force of 0.05 cN/dtex or less, at a temperature of 140-160°C, and at an overfeed ratio of 0-30%, and then subjected to draw false-twisting treatment at a draw ratio of 1.15-1.4 times, at a false-twisting coefficient of 27,000-32,000, at a false-twisting temperature of 170-190°C, and under an untwisting tensile force strength represented by the following equation (i) of 0.2-0.5 cN/dtex. The crimped yarn is split by alkali reduction processing into an extra-fine deeply dyeable yarn having a single fiber fineness of 0.01-0.5 dtex. Untwisting tensile force strength (cN/dtex)=[Untwisting tensile force (cN)]/[Actual fineness (dtex) of the crimped yarn after the draw false-twisting treatment] (i).SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 1 【課題】濃染性に優れ、深みのある色相と仕立て映えとを表現でき、起毛加工を行った場合にセーム調風合い（ヌメリ感、上品な毛並み、及びしなやかな風合い）を発現し得る極細濃染加工糸得るための捲縮糸を提供する。【解決手段】ポリエステル複合未延伸糸を０．０５ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘ以下の張力、１４０〜１６０℃の温度、及び０〜３０％のオーバーフィード率で収縮熱処理し、次いで、１．１５〜１．４倍の延伸倍率、２７０００〜３２０００の仮撚係数、１７０〜１９０℃の仮撚温度、及び０．２〜０．５ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘの下記式（ｉ）で示される解撚張力強さで延伸仮撚処理された捲縮糸である。前記捲縮糸はアルカリ減量加工により割繊されて単糸繊度が０．０１〜０．５ｄｔｅｘである極細濃染加工糸となる。解撚張力強さ（ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘ）＝解撚張力（ｃＮ）／延伸仮撚処理後の捲縮糸の実繊度（ｄｔｅｘ） （ｉ）【選択図】図１