쪽 염료의 환원조건에 따른 섬유소 직물의 염색성과 색채특성

• Published in: The Research Journal of the Costume Culture Vol. 24; no. 6; pp. 777 - 787
• Main Authors: 신주동, Judong Shin, 최종명, Jongmyoung Choi
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: Korean
• Published: 복식문화학회 31.12.2016
• Subjects: cellulose fabrics(섬유소 직물); colorimetric characteristics(색채특성); dyeing properties(염색성); indigo(쪽); reducing conditions(환원조건); 생활과학
• ISSN: 1226-0401; 2383-6334
• DOI: 10.29049/rjcc.2016.24.6.777

This study was carried out in order to provide useful data for planning fabrics of summer eco-friendly fashion products. The fabrics used in this study were four cellulose fibers: cotton, cotton/mulberry blended, flax, and flax/lyocell blended. Dyeing with natural indigo was carried out under three different reducing conditions (i.e., general, eclectic, and eco-friendly) that have different reducing agent and pH levels, and hydrosulfite and glucose were used as a reducing agent. The dye uptake (K/S value) of fabrics dyed with natural indigo by a reducing condition was the highest at 660nm. Regardless of the fabrics, dye uptake was the highest under the general reducing condition and the lowest under the eco-friendly reducing condition. Under different reducing conditions, the dye uptake of natural indigo fabrics with the maximum absorption wavelength indicated a difference. The colorfastness of cellulose fabrics that were dyed with natural indigo had a rate of 4 to 5 except for rubbing fastness, which indicated good colorfastness. Additionally, natural indigo-dyed cotton and flax fabrics had good antibiosis. When the color characteristics of fabrics dyed with natural indigo were measured, all of the three reducing conditions created purple blue (PB) colors, and the color characteristics of dyed fabrics by reducing condition and fabric showed significant differences.