천연염료를 이용한 양모 직물의 심색 재현성에 대한 연구

• Published in: The Research Journal of the Costume Culture Vol. 28; no. 5; pp. 669 - 676
• Main Authors: 김미경, Mi Kyung Kim, 김태미, Taemi Kim
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: Korean
• Published: 복식문화학회 31.10.2020
• Subjects: combination dyeing; deep color; natural dye stuff; wool fabric; 복합 염색; 생활과학; 심색; 양모 직물; 천연염료
• ISSN: 1226-0401; 2383-6334
• DOI: 10.29049/rjcc.2020.28.5.669

The purpose of this research was to revive the bathochromic effects of wool fabrics by using natural dyestuffs with minimum heavy metallic mordants. The natural dyestuffs used in this research were the indigo plant, Phellodendron amurense, and Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 1 was pre-dyed five times with indigo. Sample no. 2 was pre-dyed five times with indigo and then once dyed with Phellodendron amurense. Following the same method as sample no. 2 with an additional Phellodendron, Sample no. 3 consisted of a pre-dye five times with indigo and twice with Phellodendron amurense. Sample no. 4 was pre-dyed six times with indigo and then once dyed with Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 5 followed the same method as no. 4 with an additional dye of Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 6 was pre-dyed five times with indigo and then once dyed with Phellodendron amurense and once dyed with Caesalpinia sappan. The results were as follows: first, all samples showed deeper colors. Second, according to the results of the surface K/S measurement, the surface K/S of wool fabrics was >20. Third, the results of lightfastness measurement showed superiority over grade 4 in samples no. 1, 2, 3, 5, and 6. However, sample no. 4 was grade 3. In the colorfastness to washing measurement, sample no. 2 showed greater superiority than grade 3―4, while samples no. 1 and 3 were grade 3. In addition, the colorfastness to dry cleaning for all samples was satisfactory or excellent by more than grade 3.