PROPAGATION AND BREAKING OF WAVES ON SLOPING BEACH

In this paper the propagation and breaking of the solitary wave,the sinusoidalwave and the second Stokes wave on a slope of 1/30 are discussed based upon the TUMMACmethod,and the velocity fields of breaking waves on the slope are obtained by using the tracingmethod.The.numerical results for wave def...

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Bibliographic Details
Published in水动力学研究与进展：英文版 no. 1; pp. 1 - 9
Format Journal Article
LanguageEnglish
Published 1993
Subjects
beach
breaking
deformation
MAC
method
sloping
wave
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Summary:In this paper the propagation and breaking of the solitary wave,the sinusoidalwave and the second Stokes wave on a slope of 1/30 are discussed based upon the TUMMACmethod,and the velocity fields of breaking waves on the slope are obtained by using the tracingmethod.The.numerical results for wave deformation are in good agreement with experimentaldata,and the breaker indexes depending on the kinetic criterion agree approximately with previ-ous results.Furthermore,compared with the experimental results measured by Iwagaki and bythe authors,the tendency of velocity distribution of breaking waves computed by this numericalmethod is also satisfactory.
Bibliography:31-1563/T
Chen Miao-fu Zhao Yao-nan Department of Hydraulic Engineering,Tianjin University,Tianjin 300072,P.R.China
ISSN:1001-6058