A novel Ca 2+ double cone vector system to treat compromised skin

• Published in: International journal of cosmetic science Vol. 46; no. 2; pp. 228 - 238
• Main Authors: Baumann, Julia, Wandrey, Franziska, Sacher, Riikka, Zülli, Fred
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: England 01.04.2024
• Subjects: Aged; Calcium - metabolism; Epidermis; Humans; Skin Aging; Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate - pharmacology; Water Loss, Insensible; claim substantiation; skin barrier; delivery/vectorization/penetration; Ca2; vector system; stressed/compromised skin
• ISSN: 0142-5463; 1468-2494
• DOI: 10.1111/ics.12926

Stressed, damaged or very aged skin is predominantly characterized by a malfunctioning skin barrier. Underlying skin barrier malfunction is a reduced or defective calcium gradient in the epidermis. Consequently, replenishing the compromised skin's calcium stores with topical calcium could be a potential therapeutic approach. We investigated the effect of our novel Ca double cone vector system on improving the differentiation and barrier function of reconstructed human epidermis (RHE), cultured at low basal calcium (0.3 mM) to represent very aged skin. Furthermore, in a randomized placebo-controlled clinical study the skin barrier of 20 healthy volunteers was challenged with 2% sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) for 24 h under occlusion, following and/or prior to treatment with a gel containing 2% of our calcium vector system. Culture in reduced basal calcium conditions (0.3 mM) strongly impeded the formation of a dense stratified epidermis. The apical treatment with 1.1 mM CaCl was not able to restore a functional differentiation. Treatment with 0.1% of the Ca delivery system rescued the differentiation process and resulted in a normal stratified epidermis. Clinically, application of the Ca vector system prior to and following SLS stress prevented increases in skin irritation and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) compared to placebo controls. Importantly, the treatment also significantly accelerated the recovery time following SLS stress. With our novel Ca vector system, we highlight the delivery of bioavailable Ca ions into the skin as a new and successful approach to treat a damaged barrier present in stressed, aged or atopic skin.