Estrogenic Activity of Cosmetic Components in Reporter Cell Lines: Parabens, UV Screens, and Musks

• Published in: Journal of Toxicology and Environmental Health, Part A Vol. 68; no. 4; pp. 239 - 251
• Main Authors: Gomez, E., Pillon, A., Fenet, H., Rosain, D., Duchesne, M. J., Nicolas, J. C., Balaguer, P., Casellas, C.
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: England Taylor & Francis Group 27.02.2005; Taylor & Francis
• Subjects: Cell Line; Cosmetics; Ecotoxicology; Fatty Acids, Monounsaturated - toxicity; Genes, Reporter; Humans; Life Sciences; Parabens - toxicity; Receptors, Estrogen - drug effects; Receptors, Estrogen - physiology; Sunscreening Agents - toxicity; Toxicology
• ISSN: 1528-7394; 1087-2620; 2381-3504
• DOI: 10.1080/15287390590895054

In this work, the estrogenic effects of three classes of substances included in cosmetic formulations-parabens, ultraviolet (UV) screens, and musk fragrances-were studied. Their estrogenic activity was measured with the use of three reporter cell lines: HELN, HELN ERα, and HELN ERβ. These three cell lines allowed for the measurement of estrogenic activity toward estrogen receptors α and β (ERα and ERβ), while taking nonspecific interactions into account. Eight of the 15 substances tested showed specific estrogenic activity with the following degree of potency on ERα: butylparaben > propylparaben > homosalate = octyl-dimethyl-PABA = 4-methyl-benzylidenecamphor = octyl-methoxycinnamate > ethylparaben = galaxolide. Among these active substances, parabens activated ERα and ERβ similarly, UV screens activated ERα moderately and had almost no effect on ERβ, and fragrances did not activate ERβ. Methylparaben, ethylparaben, musk moskene, celestolide, and cashmeran did not activate estrogenic responses up to 10−5 M. Musk ketone and benzophenone-3 were not considered estrogenic at 10−5 M. We thank S. Bintein and the MATE, France (Ministère de l'Aménagement du Territoire et de l'Environnement), for financial support. M. Manley, professional translator, improved the English.