Hair Growth Activity of Three Plants of the Polynesian Cosmetopoeia and Their Regulatory Effect on Dermal Papilla Cells

• Published in: Molecules (Basel, Switzerland) Vol. 25; no. 19; p. 4360
• Main Authors: Hughes, Kristelle, Ho, Raimana, Greff, Stéphane, Filaire, Edith, Ranouille, Edwige, Chazaud, Claire, Herbette, Gaëtan, Butaud, Jean-François, Berthon, Jean-Yves, Raharivelomanana, Phila
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: Switzerland MDPI AG 23.09.2020; MDPI
• Subjects: Antioxidants; Bioassays; Calophyllum inophyllum; Cell Line; Cell proliferation; Cell Proliferation - drug effects; Chromatography; cosmetopoeia; dermal papilla; Dermis - cytology; Dermis - drug effects; Dkk1 protein; ethnobotany; Flavonoids; Gene expression; Hair; Hair Follicle - cytology; Hair Follicle - drug effects; Hair Follicle - growth & development; hair growth; Hair loss; Humans; Life Sciences; Liquid chromatography; Mass spectrometry; Mass spectroscopy; Natural products; Organic acids; Peroxisome proliferator-activated receptors; Plant Extracts - pharmacology; Polynesian plants; Skin; Tracheophyta - chemistry; Transforming growth factor-b1; Wnt; Wnt protein; Wnt Signaling Pathway - drug effects; Wound healing; French Polynesia; dermal papilla; cosmetopoeia; Wnt; hair growth; ethnobotany; Polynesian plants
• ISSN: 1420-3049; 1420-3049
• DOI: 10.3390/molecules25194360

Hair loss is becoming increasingly prevalent as dietary and living habits change. The search for natural products to limit hair loss has led to tapping into traditional cosmetic knowledge. We studied three plants of the Polynesian cosmetopoeia, , and , to determine their ability to promote hair growth. Their chemical content was characterized by liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (LC-MS). Their proliferative activity on dermal papilla cells (DPCs) was assessed via MTT assay and molecular targets were evaluated by RT-qPCR analysis of seven factors involved in the modulation of the hair cycle, , , , , , and . Our results show that our extracts significantly increased proliferation of dermal papilla cells. Furthermore, LC-MS/MS analysis revealed a diversity of molecules, flavonoids, iridoids and organic acids, some known for hair-inducing properties. Finally, specific extracts and fractions of all three plants either upregulated , and involved in stimulating hair follicle proliferation and/or lowered the gene expression levels of hair growth inhibiting factors, and . Our findings suggest that extracts from and are interesting candidates to stimulate hair growth.