A Practical Approach for the In Vitro Safety and Efficacy Assessment of an Anti-Ageing Cosmetic Cream Enriched with Functional Compounds

• Published in: Molecules (Basel, Switzerland) Vol. 26; no. 24; p. 7592
• Main Authors: Zerbinati, Nicola, Sommatis, Sabrina, Maccario, Cristina, Di Francesco, Serena, Capillo, Maria Chiara, Grimaldi, Giulia, Rauso, Raffaele, Herrera, Martha, Bencini, Pier Luca, Mocchi, Roberto
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: Switzerland MDPI AG 15.12.2021; MDPI
• Subjects: 3D model; Aging; Biocompatibility; Cell Line; Collagen; Cornea; Cosmeceuticals; Cosmeceuticals - pharmacology; Cosmetics; Cytokines; Cytotoxicity; Dermis - metabolism; Elastin; Epidermis; Epithelium; Evaluation; Extracellular matrix; Extracellular Matrix Proteins - biosynthesis; Fibroblasts; Fibroblasts - metabolism; Humans; in vitro; In vitro methods and tests; Inflammation; Interleukin 6; Interleukin-6 - biosynthesis; Interstitial collagenase; Keratinocytes; Keratinocytes - metabolism; Kinases; Matrix metalloproteinase; Matrix Metalloproteinase 1 - biosynthesis; Matrix metalloproteinases; Metalloproteinase; MMP-1; Protein biosynthesis; Protein synthesis; Proteins; Skin; Skin Aging - drug effects; skin irritation; Statistical analysis; Ultraviolet radiation; anti-ageing; cosmeceuticals; MMP-1; safety; in vitro; 3D model; collagen; elastin; skin irritation; ceramides
• ISSN: 1420-3049; 1420-3049
• DOI: 10.3390/molecules26247592

(1) Background: Cosmeceuticals are topical products applied to human skin to prevent skin ageing and maintain a healthy skin appearance. Their effectiveness is closely linked to the compounds present in a final formulation. In this article, we propose a panel of in vitro tests to support the efficacy assessment of an anti-ageing cream enriched with functional compounds. (2) Methods: biocompatibility and the irritant effect were evaluated on reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) and corneal epithelium (HCE) 3D models. After a preliminary MTT assay, normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) and keratinocytes (HaCaT) were used to evaluate the extracellular matrix (ECM) protein synthesis, and interleukin-6 (IL-6) and metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) production. (3) Results: data collected showed good biocompatibility and demonstrated the absence of the irritant effect in both 3D models. Therefore, we demonstrated a statistical increase in collagen and elastin productions in NHDF cells. In HaCaT cells, we highlighted an anti-inflammatory effect through a reduction in IL-6 levels in inflammatory stimulated conditions. Moreover, the reduction of MMP-1 production after UV-B radiation was demonstrated, showing significant photo-protection. (4) Conclusion: a multiple in vitro assays approach is proposed for the valid and practical assessment of the anti-ageing protection, anti-inflammatory and biocompatible claims that can be assigned to a cosmetic product containing functional compounds.