Multicenter evaluation of a topical antioxidant serum

• Published in: Journal of cosmetic dermatology Vol. 23; no. 1; pp. 145 - 153
• Main Authors: Moradi, Amir, Shafiq, Faiza, Robison, Tiffany, Colvan, Lora, Poehler, Jeannette, Widgerow, Alan D.
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: England John Wiley & Sons, Inc 01.01.2024
• Subjects: antioxidant; Antioxidants; Antioxidants - adverse effects; Ascorbic Acid - adverse effects; Biopsy; Collagen; Cosmetics; Elastin; Erythema; Female; Humans; Laser resurfacing; L‐ascorbic acid; Male; Oxidative stress; Skin; Skin Aging; Treatment Outcome; Ultraviolet radiation; elastin; antioxidant; L-ascorbic acid
• ISSN: 1473-2130; 1473-2165; 1473-2165
• DOI: 10.1111/jocd.16067

Background A new antioxidant serum has been formulated with sodium ascorbate, a sodium salt of Vit C, which aims to address facial photodamage while maintaining a low irritation profile and preserving elastin. Detailed background science has been submitted in a previous publication. This open‐label study was conducted to validate the science by demonstrating product efficacy and tolerability in patients with moderate to severe facial photodamage. Methods A multicenter, open‐label clinical study was undertaken over 5 months from March 2023 to July 2023. Thirty six eligible participants (35 female, 1 male), aged 38–69 years, and Fitzpatrick skin types II–V were enrolled into and completed the study following 12 weeks of the topical antioxidant serum use twice daily, along with the following supporting products (gentle cleanser, moisturizer, and sunscreen for as needed use). Follow‐up visits were conducted in Weeks 2, 4, 8, and 12. At every visit, participants were evaluated for facial photodamage severity and test product tolerability. Additionally, study participants underwent subject assessments and satisfaction questionnaires, investigator assessments, biopsy collection, and photography. Results Significant improvements in all evaluated facial photodamage parameters were observed at 12 weeks together with excellent tolerability and subject satisfaction persisting to Week 12 at study completion. Histology most notably revealed increased elastin fibers in 5 out of 5 post 12‐week treatment biopsies on Movat staining, while Herovici stains revealed stimulation of collagen and early formation of new fibers. Conclusion A novel antioxidant serum has demonstrated to be safe and effective for addressing facial photodamage, while stimulating the production of both elastin and collagen in the extracellular matrix (ECM).