Surf zone dynamics simulated by a Boussinesq type model. Part I. Model description and cross-shore motion of regular waves

• Published in: Coastal engineering (Amsterdam) Vol. 32; no. 4; pp. 255 - 287
• Main Authors: Madsen, P.A., Sørensen, O.R., Schäffer, H.A.
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: Amsterdam Elsevier B.V 01.12.1997; Elsevier
• Subjects: Boussinesq model; Earth, ocean, space; Energy equation; Exact sciences and technology; External geophysics; Marine; Physics of the oceans; Surf zone; Surface waves, tides and sea level. Seiches; Wave breaking; Boussinesq model; Energy equation; Surf zone; Wave breaking; Two dimensional equation; Time domain method
• ISSN: 0378-3839; 1872-7379
• DOI: 10.1016/S0378-3839(97)00028-8

This is the first of three papers on the modelling of various types of surf zone phenomena. In this first paper, part I, the model is presented and its basic features are studied for the case of regular waves. The model is based on two-dimensional equations of the Boussinesq type and it features improved linear dispersion characteristics, possibility of wave breaking, and a moving boundary at the shoreline. The moving shoreline is treated numerically by replacing the solid beach by a permeable beach characterized by an extremely small porosity. Run-up of nonbreaking waves is verified against the analytical solution for nonlinear shallow water waves. The inclusion of wave breaking is based on the surface roller concept for spilling breakers using a geometrical determination of the instantaneous roller thickness at each point and modelling the effect of wave breaking by an additional convective momentum term. This is a function of the local wave celerity, which is determined interactively. The model is applied to cross-shore motions of regular waves including various types of breaking on plane sloping beaches and over submerged bars. Model results comprise time series of surface elevations and the spatial variation of phase-averaged quantities such as the wave height, the crest and trough elevations, the mean water level, and the depth-averaged undertow. Comparisons with physical experiments are presented. The phaseaveraged balance of the individual terms in the momentum and energy equation is determined by time-integration and quantities such as the cross-sectional roller area, the radiation stress, the energy flux and the energy dissipation are studied and discussed with reference to conventional phase-averaged wave models. The companion papers present cross-shore motions of breaking irregular waves, swash oscillations and surf beats (part II) and nearshore circulations induced by breaking of unidirectional and multidirectional waves (part III).