In Vitro Hair Dermal Papilla Cells Induction by Fagraea berteroana, a Tree of the Marquesan Cosmetopoeia (French Polynesia)

Fagraea berteroana is a tree used in traditional medicine in various islands of the South Pacific. Here, we studied its hair growth-inducing properties as suggested by one of its Marquesan ethno-uses in haircare. The ethyl acetate extract of the fruits of F. berteroana (FEAE) and four resulting frac...

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Bibliographic Details
Published inCosmetics (Basel) Vol. 8; no. 1; p. 13
Main Authors Hughes, Kristelle, Ho, Raimana, Chazaud, Claire, Hermitte, Stéphanie, Greff, Stéphane, Butaud, Jean-François, Filaire, Edith, Ranouille, Edwige, Berthon, Jean-Yves, Raharivelomanana, Phila
Format Journal Article
LanguageEnglish
Published Basel MDPI AG 01.03.2021
Subjects
Acetic acid
Bone morphogenetic protein 2
Cell growth
Cell proliferation
ethnocosmetology
Ethyl acetate
Fagraea
Fagraea berteroana
Fruits
Gene expression
Gentianaceae
Growth factors
Hair
hair growth
Kinases
Marquesas islands
Plant extracts
Protein folding
Proteins
Statistical analysis
Transforming growth factor-b
Wnt protein
β-Catenin
Hawaii
United States > US
Tahiti
Germany
Marquesas Islands
French Polynesia
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Summary:Fagraea berteroana is a tree used in traditional medicine in various islands of the South Pacific. Here, we studied its hair growth-inducing properties as suggested by one of its Marquesan ethno-uses in haircare. The ethyl acetate extract of the fruits of F. berteroana (FEAE) and four resulting fractions (FEAE-F0, FEAE-F1, FEAE-F2, and FEAE-F3) were tested on hair follicle dermal papilla cells to determine their cell proliferative activity. Furthermore, RT-qPCR analysis enabled gene modulation analysis, while immunostaining of the β-catenin protein was used to follow protein regulation. We found that the plant extracts induced a controlled, dose-dependent cell proliferation. FEAE-F0 simultaneously down-regulated Bone Morphogenetic Protein 2 (BMP2) mRNA expression and upregulated Cyclin-D1 (CCND1) gene expression, which suggests an involvement in the regulation of the Wnt and Transforming Growth Factor beta (TGFβ) pathways that control the hair cycle. FEAE-F0 exhibited a 1.34-fold increase of nuclear β-catenin protein. This is indicative of an active hair growth state. Thus, we conclude that FEAE-F0 could be an innovative candidate in hair care, which opens interesting leads to promote the Marquesan cosmetopoeia.
ISSN:2079-9284
2079-9284
DOI:10.3390/cosmetics8010013