Experimental study of the transformation of bound long waves over a mild slope with ambient currents

• Published in: Coastal engineering (Amsterdam) Vol. 56; no. 10; pp. 1035 - 1042
• Main Authors: Dong, Guohai, Ma, Xiaozhou, Xu, Jianwu, Ma, Yuxiang, Wang, Gang
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: Kidlington Elsevier B.V 01.10.2009; Elsevier
• Subjects: Bound long waves; Earth sciences; Earth, ocean, space; Engineering and environment geology. Geothermics; Engineering geology; Exact sciences and technology; Geomorphology, landform evolution; Marine; Marine and continental quaternary; Nonlinear interaction; Surficial geology; Wave shoaling; Wave–current interaction; Nonlinear interaction; Bound long waves; Wave–current interaction; Wave shoaling; experimental studies; waves; growth rates; slopes; Wave-current interaction; currents; amplitude; depth; transformations; shoaling
• ISSN: 0378-3839; 1872-7379
• DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2009.06.010

The effect of currents on the variation of cross-shore bound long waves forced by bichromatic waves over a plane slope was investigated in the laboratory. In still water the growth rate of the shoaling bound long waves over the slope is proportional to h – 5/2 ( h is still-water depth). It was found that the opposing current makes the amplitudes of the bound long waves greater than those of still water for all cases. However, the amplitudes of bound long waves in a following current are reduced in the weakly modulated cases but are enhanced in the fully modulated case.