Steep unidirectional wave groups – fully nonlinear simulations vs. experiments

A detailed quantitative comparison of fully nonlinear computations with the measurements of unidirectional wave groups is presented. Computational results on evolving wave groups were compared with previous available experiments. The local surface elevation variation, the evolution of envelope shape...

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Bibliographic Details
Published inNonlinear processes in geophysics Vol. 22; no. 6; pp. 737 - 747
Main Authors Shemer, L, Ee, B K
Format Journal Article
LanguageEnglish
Published Gottingen Copernicus GmbH 01.11.2015
Copernicus Publications
Subjects
Computational mathematics
Computer simulation
Elevation
Experiments
Geophysics
Initial conditions
Kinematics
Laboratories
Propagation velocity
Quantitative analysis
Simulation
Studies
Velocity
Water waves
Wave breaking
Wave groups
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Summary:A detailed quantitative comparison of fully nonlinear computations with the measurements of unidirectional wave groups is presented. Computational results on evolving wave groups were compared with previous available experiments. The local surface elevation variation, the evolution of envelope shapes, the velocity of propagation of the steepest crests in the group and their relation to the height of the crests were obtained numerically and experimentally. Conditions corresponding to incipient wave breaking were investigated in greater detail. The results shed additional light on mechanisms leading to the breaking of steep waves, as well as on the crucial importance of exact matching between initial conditions in computations and experiments.
ISSN:1607-7946
1023-5809
1607-7946
DOI:10.5194/npg-22-737-2015