Statistical distribution of nonlinear random wave height

• Published in: Science China. Earth sciences Vol. 49; no. 4; pp. 443 - 448
• Main Authors: Hou, Yijun, Guo, Peifang, Song, Guiting, Song, Jinbao, Yin, Baoshu, Zhao, Xixi
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: Dordrecht Springer Nature B.V 01.04.2006; Graduate University of the Chinese Academy of Sciences, Beijing 100039, China; Institute of Oceanology, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Qingdao 266071, China%Institute of Oceanology, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Qingdao 266071, China
• Subjects: distribution; Geophysics; height; nonlinearity; ocean; Probability distribution; Random; Water waves; wave; Wave height; wave height distribution; nonlinearity; Random ocean wave
• ISSN: 1674-7313; 1006-9313; 1869-1897; 1862-2801
• DOI: 10.1007/s11430-006-0443-0

A statistical model of random wave is developed using Stokes wave theory of water wave dynamics. A new nonlinear probability distribution function of wave height is presented. The results indicate that wave steepness not only could be a parameter of the distribution function of wave height but also could reflect the degree of wave height distribution deviation from the Rayleigh distribution. The new wave height distribution overcomes the problem of Rayleigh distribution that the prediction of big wave is overestimated and the general wave is underestimated. The prediction of small probability wave height value of new distribution is also smaller than that of Rayleigh distribution. Wave height data taken from East China Normal University are used to verify the new distribution. The results indicate that the new distribution fits the measurements much better than the Rayleigh distribution.