Mechanisms of pollutant-induced toxicity in skin and detoxification: Anti-pollution strategies and perspectives for cosmetic products

• Published in: Annales pharmaceutiques françaises Vol. 77; no. 6; p. 446
• Main Authors: Richard, F, Creusot, T, Catoire, S, Egles, C, Ficheux, H
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: France 01.11.2019
• Subjects: Antioxidants - pharmacology; Antioxidants - therapeutic use; Cosmetics - chemistry; Cosmetics - pharmacology; Cosmetics - therapeutic use; Cytokines - metabolism; DNA Damage; Drug Eruptions - etiology; Drug Eruptions - prevention & control; Drug Synergism; Emollients - pharmacology; Emollients - therapeutic use; Environmental Pollutants - pharmacokinetics; Environmental Pollutants - toxicity; Hair Follicle - drug effects; Hair Follicle - metabolism; Humans; Inactivation, Metabolic; Inflammation; Lipids - physiology; Oxidative Stress; Ozone - toxicity; Particulate Matter - pharmacokinetics; Particulate Matter - toxicity; Sebaceous Glands - drug effects; Sebaceous Glands - metabolism; Skin - drug effects; Skin - enzymology; Skin - radiation effects; Skin Absorption; Skin Aging; Smoke - adverse effects; Ultraviolet Rays - adverse effects; Xenobiotics - pharmacokinetics; Cosmétiques; Toxicologie; Toxicology; Particulate matter; Cosmetics; Skin; Peau; Ultraviolet; Particules fines
• ISSN: 0003-4509
• DOI: 10.1016/j.pharma.2019.07.001

With the development of industry and increase in road traffic, atmospheric pollution has reached unprecedented levels in many regions of the world. Concentrations of pollutants are often far beyond the recommendations of the World Health Organization. Skin, as the first interface between the human body and its environment, is one of the main organs exposed to pollutants and to other environmental factors such as UV irradiation. As much as the effects of pollution and UV irradiation on human skin have been described, the underlying mechanisms remain to be elucidated. This state of the art study aims at exposing the numerous adverse effects of UV and pollution as well as their mode of action on skin. We summarize how these environmental factors negatively impact skin cells: by upregulating xenobiotic metabolism (and bioactivation) and inducing oxidative stress and inflammation, leading to premature aging and a disrupted barrier function. Consequently, we suggest adapted protective measures for the cosmetic industry to support anti-pollution claims.