Random breaking waves: Field verification of a wave-by-wave algorithm for engineering application

• Published in: Coastal engineering (Amsterdam) Vol. 16; no. 4; pp. 369 - 397
• Main Author: Dally, William R.
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: Amsterdam Elsevier B.V 1992; Elsevier
• Subjects: Earth, ocean, space; Exact sciences and technology; External geophysics; Marine; Physics of the oceans; Surface waves, tides and sea level. Seiches; Amplitude; Energy spectrum; Shoals; Statistical analysis; Error estimation; Surface wave; Stochastic process; Algorithm; Forecasting; Wave breaking; Wave reflection; Accuracy; Ocean wave; Numerical simulation; Height
• ISSN: 0378-3839; 1872-7379
• DOI: 10.1016/0378-3839(92)90060-8

A simple numerical algorithm is utilized to test the wave-by-wave approach to modeling random wave transformation caused by shoaling, breaking and reforming across nearshore profiles of arbitrary shape. Histograms of wave height and associated statistics predicted by the model show favorable comparison to measurements from the nine tests of the DUCK'85 field experiment, with a root mean square error less than 10% for most wave statistics. Although suitable for use in many engineering applications, the model does overpredict the number of waves that reform as they pass over a trough formation, which is one facet that warrants improvement. Using the model predictions as a point of reference, the qualitative effects of (1) an offshore wind, (2) wave reflection and (3) surf beat are identified and discussed.