An efficient method to identify cross-sea states from wave measurements

• Published in: Coastal engineering (Amsterdam) Vol. 51; no. 10; pp. 941 - 965
• Main Authors: Piscopia, Rodolfo, Panizzo, Andrea, De Girolamo, Paolo
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: Amsterdam Elsevier B.V 01.11.2004; Elsevier
• Subjects: Cross-Sea Index; Directional wave measurements; Directional wave spectra; Earth sciences; Earth, ocean, space; Exact sciences and technology; Geomorphology, landform evolution; Marine; Marine and continental quaternary; Mean wave direction; Sea and swell; Surficial geology; Directional wave spectra; Directional wave measurements; Sea and swell; Cross-Sea Index; Mean wave direction; waves; spectra; efficiency; Monte Carlo analysis; simulation; testing; swells; networks; Directional wave measuements; new methods; storms; direction
• ISSN: 0378-3839; 1872-7379
• DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2004.06.002

This paper is aimed at describing a simple and efficient method to identify cross-sea states from directional wave measurements. The method is based on a new parameter named “Cross-Sea Index” (CSI), which is defined as the difference between two distinct definitions of the overall mean wave direction: the classic one introduced by Longuet-Higgins and the more recent one suggested by De Girolamo. In the following, the theoretical basis of the method is firstly outlined. The influence of the directional spectrum characteristics on the Cross-Sea Index is then discussed. Afterwards, the results of two Monte Carlo simulations are shown. These simulations were aimed at testing the new method and at comparing its outcomes with those of three other existing criteria. Finally, the new method is applied to the directional wave measurements, which were recorded by the Italian Sea Wave monitoring Network (SWaN) during the storm on 26th December 1993. All the achieved results clearly show the efficiency of the herein-proposed method.