Analysis of Active Components and Transcriptome of Freesia refracta Callus Extract and Its Effects against Oxidative Stress and Wrinkles in Skin

• Published in: International journal of molecular sciences Vol. 25; no. 15; p. 8150
• Main Authors: Kim, Euihyun, Tollenaere, Morgane De, Sennelier, Benedicte, Lambert, Carole, Durduret, Anais, Kim, Soo-Yun, Seo, Hyo-Hyun, Lee, Jung-Hun, Scandolera, Amandine, Reynaud, Romain, Moh, Sang-Hyun
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: Switzerland MDPI AG 01.08.2024
• Subjects: Adult; Aging; anti-aging; antioxidant; Collagen; Collagen - metabolism; cosmetic ingredient; Cosmetics; Cosmetics - pharmacology; Female; Fibroblasts; Fibroblasts - drug effects; Fibroblasts - metabolism; Flavonoids; Flowers & plants; Freesia refracta callus extract; Humans; Metabolites; Middle Aged; Niacinamide; Niacinamide - pharmacology; Oxidative stress; Oxidative Stress - drug effects; Phytochemicals; plant cell culture; Plant Extracts - chemistry; Plant Extracts - pharmacology; Pyrrolidonecarboxylic Acid - analogs & derivatives; Pyrrolidonecarboxylic Acid - metabolism; Pyrrolidonecarboxylic Acid - pharmacology; Skin; Skin - drug effects; Skin - metabolism; Skin Aging - drug effects; Solvents; Temperature; Transcriptome - drug effects; France; anti-aging; antioxidant; Freesia refracta callus extract; cosmetic ingredient; plant cell culture
• ISSN: 1422-0067; 1661-6596; 1422-0067
• DOI: 10.3390/ijms25158150

(FR), a perennial flower of the Iris family (Iridaceae), is widely used in cosmetics despite limited scientific evidence of its skin benefits and chemical composition, particularly of FR callus extract (FCE). This study identified biologically active compounds in FCE and assessed their skin benefits, focusing on anti-aging. FR calli were cultured, extracted with water at 40 °C, and analyzed using Centrifugal Partition Chromatography (CPC), Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (NMR), and HCA, revealing key compounds, namely nicotinamide and pyroglutamic acid. FCE significantly increased collagen I production by 52% in normal and aged fibroblasts and enhanced fibroblast-collagen interaction by 37%. An in vivo study of 43 female volunteers demonstrated an 11.1% reduction in skin roughness and a 2.3-fold increase in collagen density after 28 days of cream application containing 3% FCE. Additionally, the preservation tests of cosmetics containing FCE confirmed their stability over 12 weeks. These results suggest that FCE offers substantial anti-aging benefits by enhancing collagen production and fibroblast-collagen interactions. These findings highlighted the potential of FCE in cosmetic applications, providing significant improvements in skin smoothness and overall appearance. This study fills a gap in the scientific literature regarding the skin benefits and chemical composition of FR callus extract, supporting its use in the development of effective cosmeceuticals.