Green Synthesis Optimization of Glucose Palm Oleate and Its Potential Use as Natural Surfactant in Cosmetic Emulsion

• Published in: Cosmetics (Basel) Vol. 9; no. 4; p. 76
• Main Authors: Chaiwut, Phanuphong, Jirarat, Areeya, Tiensri, Ninnapat, Sangthong, Sarita, Pintathong, Punyawatt
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: Basel MDPI AG 01.07.2022
• Subjects: Carica papaya Lipase; Chemical properties; Chemical synthesis; Cosmetics; Dextrose; Energy consumption; Enzymes; Esters; Fatty acids; Gas chromatography; Glucose; glucose palm oleate; Green market; green synthesis; Infrared spectroscopy; Liquid chromatography; Mass spectroscopy; Moisture content; natural surfactant; Oleic acid; Optimization; Palmitic acid; Production processes; Solvents; Surface active agents; Surfactants; Thin-layer chromatography; transesterification; United States
• ISSN: 2079-9284; 2079-9284
• DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics9040076

This study aimed to optimize the green synthesis of glucose palm oleate catalyzed by Carica papaya Lipase (CPL) through transesterification in a solvent-free system. Palm olein was used as a fatty acid donor for transesterification reactant and was also employed as a reaction medium. Reaction optimization was performed by using response surface methodology (RSM). Seventeen synthesis conditions were generated by a Box–Behnken design and the products were further determined by ultra-performance liquid chromatography (UPLC). Fatty acid compositions of palm olein identified by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) found that oleic acid (51.77 ± 0.67%) and palmitic acid (37.22 ± 0.48%) were major components. The synthesis variable factors of 50 °C, 45 h reaction time, and 1400 U of CPL were predicted by the RSM to be optimum conditions and thus provided the highest glucose palm oleate of 0.3542 mmol/g. Conjugation between palm olein fatty acids and glucose via transesterification resulted in glucose palm oleate being obviously verified by UPLC, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), and thin-layer chromatography (TLC) analyses. The synthesized sugar fatty acid ester revealed an HLB value of 6.20 represented by the lowest % creaming index (%CI) of 35.40 ± 3.21%. It also exhibited a critical micelle concentration (CMC) of 3.16 × 10−5 M. This study is the first report to reveal the transesterification of glucose and palm olein catalyzed by CPL in a system without using any solvent. Glucose palm oleate has been shown to be derived from an environmentally friendly synthesis process and would be promising as a potential alternative natural surfactant for cosmetic application.