A note on linear dispersion and shoaling properties in extended Boussinesq equations

• Published in: Ocean engineering Vol. 30; no. 14; pp. 1849 - 1867
• Main Authors: Lee, C., Cho, Y.-S., Yoon, S.B.
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: Amsterdam Elsevier Ltd 01.10.2003; Elsevier
• Subjects: Dynamics of the ocean (upper and deep oceans); Earth, ocean, space; Exact sciences and technology; Extended Boussinesq equations; External geophysics; Linear dispersion; Marine; Numerical test; Physics of the oceans; Shoaling coefficient; Surface waves, tides and sea level. Seiches; Extended Boussinesq equations; Numerical test; Linear dispersion; Shoaling coefficient; Shoals; Ocean dynamics; Velocity; Dispersion; Depth; Coastal zone; Wave propagation; Boussinesq equation; Numerical simulation; Computing method; Comparative study
• ISSN: 0029-8018; 1873-5258
• DOI: 10.1016/S0029-8018(03)00015-5

A set of optimum parameter α is obtained to evaluate the linear dispersion and shoaling properties in the extended Boussinesq equations of Madsen and Sørensen (1992), Nwogu (1993), and Chen and Liu (1995). Optimum α values are determined to produce minimal errors in each wave property of phase velocity, group velocity, or shoaling coefficient relative to the analytical one given by the Stokes wave theory. Comparisons are made of the percent errors in phase velocity, group velocity, and shoaling coefficient produced by the Boussinesq equations with a different set of optimum α values. The case with a fixed value of α = −0.4 is also presented in the comparison. The comparisons reveal that the optimum α value tuned for a particular wave property gives in general poor results for other properties. Considering all the properties simultaneously, the fixed value of α = −0.4 may give overall accuracies in phase velocity and shoaling coefficient for all the types of Boussinesq equations selected in this study.