Efficacy of hydroquinone-free skin-lightening cream for photoaging

• Published in: Journal of cosmetic dermatology Vol. 12; no. 1; pp. 12 - 17
• Main Authors: Dreher, Frank, Draelos, Zoe D., Gold, Michael H., Goldman, Mitchel P., Fabi, Sabrina G., Puissegur Lupo, Mary L.
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: England Blackwell Publishing Ltd 01.03.2013
• Subjects: Administration, Cutaneous; Adult; Aged; anti-aging; California; Dermatologic Agents - administration & dosage; Dermatologic Agents - therapeutic use; Drug Combinations; Female; Follow-Up Studies; Glycerophosphates - administration & dosage; Humans; Hydroquinones; Hyperpigmentation - drug therapy; lentigines; Lentigo - drug therapy; Leucine - administration & dosage; melanin; Melanosis - drug therapy; Middle Aged; mottled hyperpigmentation; Phenylalanine - administration & dosage; Radiation-Protective Agents; Resorcinols - administration & dosage; Skin Cream - administration & dosage; skin lightening; Skin Lightening Preparations - administration & dosage; skin tone management; Time Factors; Treatment Outcome; tyrosinase
• ISSN: 1473-2130; 1473-2165; 1473-2165
• DOI: 10.1111/jocd.12025

Summary Background Hyperpigmentation and solar damage remains a difficult problem to treat with topical agents. Aims To evaluate a novel skin‐lightening complex (SLC) comprising four actives targeting melanin formation at multiple levels, namely disodium glycerophosphate, l‐leucine, phenylethyl resorcinol, and undecylenoyl phenylalanine, in an oil‐in‐water emulsion cream. Patients ⁄Methods Skin‐lightening complex was evaluated in 80 female subjects of skin types I–III with at least moderate mottled hyperpigmentation. After a wash‐out period of 1 month with a sunscreen, the subjects added a cream containing the SLC for 12 weeks twice daily to entire face and continued the sunscreen use. Results Whereas there was no significant change during the wash‐out period, the primary endpoint mottled hyperpigmentation decreased by 32% after the 12‐week treatment period with the SLC cream. Secondary endpoints such as severity and number of lentigines, skin tone, and skin brightness also improved. In all, 57% of the subjects showed at least a moderate response, 17% did not improve, and 3% got worse after the treatment. Conclusions The SLC cream was well tolerated, in particular when comparing with exfoliating or peeling agent containing skin‐lightening products. When used with a daily sunscreen, this study confirms that the SLC represents an alternative to hydroquinone, retinoids, and many other skin‐lightening actives.