A dermocosmetic formulation containing Vichy volcanic mineralizing water, Vitreoscilla filiformis extract, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and vitamin E regenerates and repairs acutely stressed skin

• Published in: Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology Vol. 36; no. S2; pp. 26 - 34
• Main Authors: Gueniche, A., Valois, A., Salomao Calixto, L., Sanchez Hevia, O., Labatut, F., Kerob, D., Nielsen, M.
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: England 01.01.2022
• Subjects: Cosmetics; Female; Humans; Hyaluronic Acid; Niacinamide; Skin - drug effects; Skin Cream; Vitamin E; Vitreoscilla; Water
• ISSN: 0926-9959; 1468-3083
• DOI: 10.1111/jdv.17785

The exposome has an impact on skin from life‐long exposure. Acute short‐term exposure to exposome stressors can also alter skin functions such as skin physical barrier and immune defenses, leading to skin dryness, sensitivity, flares of inflammatory skin conditions, or viral reactivations. Probiotics are defined as live microorganisms, which, when administered in adequate amounts, confer a health benefit on the host. An extract produced by lysing Vitreoscilla filiformis (VfeV) cultured in Vichy volcanic mineralizing water (VVMW) has properties of probiotic fractions. In this review, we present in vivo and ex vivo studies with a dermocosmetic formulation containing 80% VVMW, 5% VfeV, 4% niacinamide (vitamin B3), 0.4% hyaluronic acid, and 0.2% vitamin E (M89PF) to evaluate the clinical efficacy in preventing and repairing stressed skin. Skin barrier benefits of M89PF were shown in studies after the skin was exposed to sudden thermal changes, after skin irritation by tape stripping, and in sleep‐deprived women. M89PF significantly accelerated skin renewal compared to untreated skin. Skin antioxidant defense activity of M89PF was shown after exposure to stress from UVA plus cigarette smoke aggression. Skin microbiome recovery after acute stress from a harsh cleanser was significantly better in M89PF‐treated skin compared to bare skin. Clinical benefits of M89PF on correcting clinical signs of stressed skin were shown in both Caucasian and Asian women exposed to a stressful lifestyle and various external (pollution, tobacco smoking, solar radiation) and internal (poor sleep, stressful work, unbalanced diet, and alcohol consumption) exposome factors. M89PF also showed depigmenting properties on dark spots in Asian women. Further clinical studies are now warranted to evaluate the efficacy of M89PF as adjuvant care to prevent and repair skin barrier disruption and reinforce skin defenses in skin exposed to acute stresses.