Irregular wave transformation in the nearshore zone: experimental investigations and comparison with a higher order Boussinesq model

• Published in: Ocean engineering Vol. 32; no. 11; pp. 1465 - 1485
• Main Authors: Memos, C.D., Karambas, Th.V., Avgeris, I.
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: Amsterdam Elsevier Ltd 01.08.2005; Elsevier
• Subjects: Boussinesq-type models; Dynamics of the ocean (upper and deep oceans); Earth, ocean, space; Exact sciences and technology; External geophysics; Nearshore zone; Physics of the oceans; Wave transformation; Wave transformation; Nearshore zone; Boussinesq-type models; experimental studies; Irregularity; Boussinesq model; digital simulation; Ocean dynamics; Forecast model; Coastal zone; Wave propagation; transformations; Comparative study
• ISSN: 0029-8018; 1873-5258
• DOI: 10.1016/j.oceaneng.2004.09.009

A non-linear wave propagation model, based on the higher order depth-integrated Boussinesq-type equations for breaking and non-breaking waves, was applied to predict irregular wave transformation in two horizontal dimensions. A new source function, adapted for the proposed equations, is introduced inside the computational domain, to generate the desired short-crested waves. The dissipation due to the roller is introduced in the momentum equation in order to simulate wave breaking. Bottom friction and sub-grid turbulent processes are also introduced in the model. At the open boundaries a damping layer is applied together with a radiation boundary condition. Model results are compared with experimental measurements, containing tests with normal or oblique to the shore long- and short-crested irregular waves. The comparisons show that the model is able to simulate successfully the non-linear evolution of a unidirectional or a multidirectional wave filed in the nearshore zone, under the effects of refraction, shoaling, and breaking.