Irregular wave transformation in the nearshore zone: experimental investigations and comparison with a higher order Boussinesq model
A non-linear wave propagation model, based on the higher order depth-integrated Boussinesq-type equations for breaking and non-breaking waves, was applied to predict irregular wave transformation in two horizontal dimensions. A new source function, adapted for the proposed equations, is introduced i...
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Published in | Ocean engineering Vol. 32; no. 11; pp. 1465 - 1485 |
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Main Authors | , , |
Format | Journal Article |
Language | English |
Published |
Amsterdam
Elsevier Ltd
01.08.2005
Elsevier |
Subjects | |
Online Access | Get full text |
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Summary: | A non-linear wave propagation model, based on the higher order depth-integrated Boussinesq-type equations for breaking and non-breaking waves, was applied to predict irregular wave transformation in two horizontal dimensions. A new source function, adapted for the proposed equations, is introduced inside the computational domain, to generate the desired short-crested waves. The dissipation due to the roller is introduced in the momentum equation in order to simulate wave breaking. Bottom friction and sub-grid turbulent processes are also introduced in the model. At the open boundaries a damping layer is applied together with a radiation boundary condition. Model results are compared with experimental measurements, containing tests with normal or oblique to the shore long- and short-crested irregular waves. The comparisons show that the model is able to simulate successfully the non-linear evolution of a unidirectional or a multidirectional wave filed in the nearshore zone, under the effects of refraction, shoaling, and breaking. |
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ISSN: | 0029-8018 1873-5258 |
DOI: | 10.1016/j.oceaneng.2004.09.009 |