A study on the applicability of one-step vortex extraction and purification combined with gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry for analysis of four skin penetration enhancers in cosmetics

• Published in: Journal of Chromatography A Vol. 1710; p. 464379
• Main Authors: Xiao, Gengpeng, Yuan, Lu, Liao, Dandan, Dong, Huanhuan, Luo, Xiang, Huang, Yousheng
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: Elsevier B.V 08.11.2023
• Subjects: Cosmetics; Gas chromatography tandem mass spectrometry; One-step vortex extraction; Skin penetration enhancers; Cosmetics; Skin penetration enhancers; Gas chromatography tandem mass spectrometry; One-step vortex extraction
• ISSN: 0021-9673
• DOI: 10.1016/j.chroma.2023.464379

•A method for determining skin penetration enhancers in cosmetics has been proposed.•The method was established based on one-step vortex extraction purification.•The method is suitable for the analysis of O/W, W/O and dispersion system samples.•The method is simple, rapid, accurate and low consumption of sample and solvent.•The method was successfully applied to real cosmetic sample analysis. Based on one-step vortex extraction and purification combined with gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (GC–MS/MS), we established a simple, rapid, and efficient method for the simultaneous determination of four skin penetration enhancers in cosmetics, including isosorbide dimethyl ether, isopropyl myristate, N-butylsaccharin and Azone. The extraction procedure was performed in a centrifuge tube, allowing extraction and purification in a single step. The cosmetic sample was extracted by n-hexane-ethyl acetate (1:1, V/V), purified by silica gel and anhydrous magnesium sulfate as the solid phase purification agent, separated on a TG-5 ms column (30.0 m × 0.25 mm × 0.25 μ m), confirmed and detected by GC–MS/MS in the selected reaction monitoring (SRM) mode, and quantified by the internal standard method with Di-n‑butyl phthalate-D4(DBP-D4) as the internal standard. The selections of a column, extraction solvent, and solid phase purification agent were optimized. Under the optimized conditions, the four skin penetration enhancers showed good linearities in the range of 0.02∼0.50 mg L − 1. The correlation coefficients (r) were 0.992 ∼ 0.997, exceeding the specifications requirements (r ≥ 0.990); The detection (LODs, S/N = 3) and quantification limits (LOQs, S/N = 10) of the method were 0.08 ∼ 0.12 mg kg−1 and 0.25 ∼ 0.40 mg kg−1, respectively. According to the cosmetic matrix in different formulation systems, the spiked recovery tests were carried out at three levels, i.e., low, medium, and high. The average recoveries of the analytes were 85.3% ∼ 95.6%, and the relative standard deviations (RSDs, n = 6) were 2.1% ∼ 7.8%. The established method was also employed to analyze cosmetics in the market. Azone, isosorbide dimethyl ether, and isopropyl myristate resulted as the most widely used skin penetration enhancers in cosmetics. The method established in this study has the advantages of operational simplicity, high sensitivity, good reproducibility, and low consumption of samples and solvents. Moreover, it can be used to determine skin penetration enhancers in cosmetics.