Design, Development, and In Vivo Testing of the Hydrating Effect and pH Maintenance a Cosmetic Formulation Incorporating Oils and an Extract from Peruvian Biodiversity

• Published in: Cosmetics (Basel) Vol. 11; no. 4; p. 129
• Main Authors: Huaman, Jorge, Victoria-Tinoco, Lourdes, Rojas, Jorge, Muñoz, Ana María, Lozada, Patricia
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: Basel MDPI AG 01.08.2024
• Subjects: Biodiversity; Bioengineering; Biological diversity; Chemical properties; Chemical research; Cosmetics; Dermatitis; Dermatologic agents; Dermatology; Essences and essential oils; Fatty acids; Flowers & plants; Formulae, receipts, prescriptions; Hydration; Hydration (Chemistry); Hydrogen-ion concentration; Immune system; instrumental efficacy; Laboratories; Materia medica, Vegetable; Materials; Metabolism; natural extracts; natural oils; New species; Oils & fats; Personal information; pH effects; Plant extracts; Polyphenols; Seeds; Skin; skin hydration; Skin tests; Statistical analysis; Testing; Vegetable oils; Viscosity; Peru; United States > US
• ISSN: 2079-9284; 2079-9284
• DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics11040129

Vegetable oils and extracts have been used from ancient times for skin care. The aim of this study was to design and evaluate the physicochemical, organoleptic, and microbiological characteristics and the instrumental efficacy in vivo of a cosmetic formula named “ASC Cream”, containing sangre de grado resin extract (Croton lechleri) and vegetable oils obtained from moriche palm (Mauritia flexuosa L.), goldenberry (Physalis peruviana), super sacha peanut (Plukenetia huayllabambana sp. nov.), and sacha peanut (Plukenetia volubilis L.). Instrumental efficacy, skin hydration and skin pH were tested in vivo in 24 healthy female volunteers between 40 and 65 years old, using non-invasive skin bioengineering equipment from Courage + Khazaka Electronics, both in the short term (30 min, 1 h and 3 h) and long term (14 and 28 days). The main findings were increased immediate hydration (132.4%) and long-term hydration (143.6%), showing a statistically significant average improvement (p < 0.05) without altering the skin pH. In conclusion, a balanced combination of the extract and oils significantly increases hydration levels while maintaining skin pH.