Topical application of a commercially available formulation of vitamin C stabilized by vitamin E and ferulic acid reduces tissue viability and protein synthesis in ex vivo human normal skin

• Published in: Journal of cosmetic dermatology Vol. 19; no. 11; pp. 2965 - 2973
• Main Authors: Romana‐Souza, Bruna, Silva‐Xavier, Welker, Monte‐Alto‐Costa, Andréa
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: England 01.11.2020
• Subjects: Ascorbic Acid - pharmacology; Coumaric Acids - pharmacology; ex vivo model; human skin; Humans; Skin; skin viability; Tissue Survival; vitamin C; vitamin E; Vitamin E - pharmacology; skin viability; ex vivo model; vitamin C; human skin; vitamin E
• ISSN: 1473-2130; 1473-2165; 1473-2165
• DOI: 10.1111/jocd.13413

Background Aqueous formulations of vitamin C stabilized by vitamin E and ferulic acid at low pH effectively protect skin against reactive oxygen species‐induced damage. However, the effects of these formulations on human skin have not clearly been described. The aim of this study was to investigate whether topical application of two commercially available formulations of vitamin C alter human skin using an ex vivo model. Methods Human skin explants were topically treated on alternate days with commercially available formulation 1 (15% vitamin C) at 100% (without dilution), 50%, or 10% diluted in saline or formulation 2 (20% vitamin C) at 100% (without dilution), 50%, or 10% diluted in saline. Only saline was applied to control skin explants. Results Topical formulation 1 at 100%, 50%, or 10%, but not formulation 2 at 100%, 50%, or 10%, reduced the viability of ex vivo human skin compared to the control after 7, 10, and 13 days. In addition, compared to the control, ex vivo human skin treated with formulation 1 at 50%, but not formulation 2 at 50%, also decreased mRNA levels of actin and ribosomal protein L10 and gene expression of extracellular matrix components after 10 days. Furthermore, after 10 days, topical application of formulation 1 at 50%, but not formulation 2 at 50%, decreased the protein expression of proliferating cellular nuclear antigen, lysyl oxidase, β‐actin, and glyceraldehyde‐3‐phosphate dehydrogenase compared to the control. Conclusions Topical formulation 1, but not formulation 2, may reduce the viability of and protein synthesis in ex vivo human skin. Those effects might be due to action of vehicle of formulation 1 on ex vivo human skin.