Modulation of skin androgenesis and sebum production by a dermocosmetic formulation

• Published in: Journal of cosmetic dermatology Vol. 20; no. 1; pp. 360 - 365
• Main Authors: Crocco, Elisete Isabel, Bonifácio, Evellin Barbosa, Facchini, Gustavo, Silva, Gustavo Henrique, Silva, Michelle Sabrina, Pinheiro, Ana Lucia Tabarini Alves, Avelar, Paula Voltarelli Franco, Eberlin, Samara
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: England 01.01.2021
• Subjects: 5α reductase; acne vulgaris; Acne Vulgaris - drug therapy; androgen; Androgens; dihydrotestosterone; Humans; sebaceous gland; Sebaceous Glands; Sebum; Skin; acne vulgaris; androgen; sebaceous gland; sebum; 5α reductase; dihydrotestosterone
• ISSN: 1473-2130; 1473-2165
• DOI: 10.1111/jocd.13503

Background Excessive androgenesis in the skin promotes sebaceous hyperproduction which is the onset of acne vulgaris pathogenesis. Free fatty acids and lipid accumulation in the glandular infundibulum culminates in microbiota imbalance, triggering inflammatory response and follicular hyperkeratinization. Aims The purpose of this work was to present an alternative cosmetic treatment for acne skin care, focusing on the prevention of sebaceous gland dysregulation. Methods Insulin‐stimulated human sebocytes were treated with noncytotoxic concentrations of a DTRW cosmetic formulation. After 6 days of incubation, cell lysates were collected for testosterone, 5α‐reductase, and dyhidrotestosterone (DHT) quantitation. In parallel, cells were stained with Oil Red O to measure sebum production. Results Human sebocytes were incubated with insulin to mimic a seborrheic microenvironment with overproduction of intracellular lipids and fatty acids. Concomitant incubation of cell cultures with DRTW was able to promote a 52.97% reduction in intracellular lipid content. The anti‐androgenic properties of DRTW had been proved by the reductions of testosterone (↓59.90%), 5α reductase (↓59.34%), and DHT (↓55.98%) levels in sebocyte cultures also stimulated with insulin. Conclusion The results indicate a promising action of DRTW cosmetic formulation in preventing the development of acne lesions by mechanisms involving the modulation of cutaneous androgenesis and consequently the control of sebum overproduction, considered one of the leading causes of acne.