Juniper berry extract containing Anthricin and Yatein suppresses lipofuscin accumulation in human epidermal keratinocytes through proteasome activation, increases brightness and decreases spots in human skin

• Published in: International journal of cosmetic science Vol. 45; no. 5; pp. 655 - 671
• Main Authors: Sakamoto, Kotaro, Fujimoto, Runa, Nakagawa, Satoshi, Kamiyama, Erina, Kanai, Kyoko, Kawai, Yuka, Kojima, Hiroyuki, Hirasawa, Asuka, Wakamatsu, Kanae, Masutani, Teruaki
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: England Wiley Subscription Services, Inc 01.10.2023
• Subjects: Accumulation; Aging; Aging (natural); Bioaccumulation; Brightness; Cheek; Fruits; Intracellular; Juniperus communis; Keratinocytes; Light; Light transmission; Lignans; Lipid peroxidation; Lipids; Natural products; Proteasomes; Proteins; Skin; Skin spot; Surface spots; proteasome; lipofuscin; cell culture; chemical analysis; safety testing; Juniper berry
• ISSN: 0142-5463; 1468-2494
• DOI: 10.1111/ics.12876

Skin brightness and spot have a significant impact on youthful and beautiful appearance. One important factor influencing skin brightness is the amount of internal reflected light from the skin. Observers recognize the total surface-reflected light and internal reflected light as skin brightness. The more internal reflected light from the skin, the more attractive and brighter the skin appears. This study aims to identify a new natural cosmetic ingredient that increases the skin's internal reflected light, decreases spot and provides a youthful and beautiful skin appearance. Lipofuscin in epidermal keratinocytes, the aggregating complex of denatured proteins and peroxidized lipids, is one factor that decreases skin brightness and causes of spot. Aggregates block light transmission, and peroxidized lipids lead to skin yellowness, dullness and age spot. Lipofuscin is known to accumulate intracellularly with ageing. Rapid removal of intracellular denatured proteins prevents lipofuscin formation and accumulation in cells. We focused a proteasome system that efficiently removes intracellular denatured proteins. To identify natural ingredients that increase proteasome activity, we screened 380 extracts derived from natural products. The extract with the desired activity was fractionated and purified to identify active compounds that lead to proteasome activation. Finally, the efficacy of the proteasome-activating extract was evaluated in a human clinical study. We discovered that Juniperus communis fruits (Juniper berry) extract (JBE) increases proteasome activity and suppresses lipofuscin accumulation in human epidermal keratinocytes. We found Anthricin and Yatein, which belong to the lignan family, to be major active compounds responsible for the proteasome-activating effect of JBE. In a human clinical study, an emulsion containing 1% JBE was applied to half of the face twice daily for 4 weeks, resulting in increased internal reflected light, brightness improvement (L-value) and reduction in yellowness (b-value) and spot in the cheek area. This is the first report demonstrating that JBE containing Anthricin and Yatein decreases lipofuscin accumulation in human epidermal keratinocytes through proteasome activation, increases brightness and decreases surface spots in human skin. JBE would be an ideal natural cosmetic ingredient for creating a more youthful and beautiful skin appearance with greater brightness and less spot.