Cream formulation improved skin-lightening effect of ginsenoside Rh1, Rg2, and Hydrangea macrophylla flower extract

• Published in: Journal of pharmaceutical investigation Vol. 53; no. 4; pp. 527 - 538
• Main Authors: Kim, Dong-Hyun, Nguyen, Thu Nhan, Jin, Yujin, Baek, Naehwan, Back, So Young, Sim, Sohyun, Heo, Kyung-Sun, Park, Jeong-Sook
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: Singapore Springer Nature Singapore 01.07.2023
• Subjects: Biomedical and Life Sciences; Biomedicine; Original Article; Ginsenoside Rg2; Cream formulation; extracts; Skin-lightening effect; Penetration; Ginsenoside Rh1
• ISSN: 2093-5552; 2093-6214
• DOI: 10.1007/s40005-023-00620-3

Purpose The aim of this study was to evaluate the synergistic effect of ginsenoside Rh1, Rg2, and Hydrangea extract on skin-lightening and to assess the skin-lightening effect of cream formulation containing these three substances. Methods To investigate the skin-lightening effects, we evaluated the inhibitory effects of three substances (ginsenosides Rh1, Rg2, and Hydrangea extract) on tyrosinase (TYR) activity in melanocytes (SK-MEL-2 cells) and pigmentation in a three-dimensional (3D) artificial skin model. Skin permeability was compared between a cream formulation and a solution containing ginsenosides Rh1, Rg2, and Hydrangea extract on a 3D artificial skin model. Results The combination of ginsenosides Rh1, Rg2, and Hydrangea extract reduced the activity of TYR and inhibited the synthesis of melanin more effectively than each component alone. When these three active compounds were loaded into an Absolute® cream base, the skin permeability was improved compared to the solution formulation. Addition of flower extract to the cream formulation also increased the permeability of ginsenoside Rh1 measured in the donor chamber, skin, and receptor chamber after the application of the cream formulation (60.2 ± 9.4%, 3.4 ± 0.4% and 36.4 ± 19.0%, respectively) and the solution formulation (67.7 ± 7.6%, 4.4 ± 0.4% and 27.9 ± 8.3%, respectively). Conclusion The results showed that the combination of ginsenosides Rh1, Rg2, and Hydrangea extract increased the permeability and efficacy of Rh1.