How to fight acute sun damage? Current skin care strategies

• Published in: Photochemical & photobiological sciences Vol. 23; no. 10; pp. 1915 - 1930
• Main Authors: Jesus, Ana, Sousa, Emília, Cidade, Honorina, Cruz, Maria T., Almeida, Isabel F.
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: Cham Springer International Publishing 01.10.2024
• Subjects: Biochemistry; Biomaterials; Chemistry; Chemistry and Materials Science; Original Papers; Physical Chemistry; Plant Sciences; Market characterization; Mechanisms of action; Aftersun products; Mitigation of skin photodamage; UV skin damage
• ISSN: 1474-905X; 1474-9092; 1474-9092
• DOI: 10.1007/s43630-024-00641-3

Excessive exposure to sunlight can contribute for skin photo-damage, such as sunburn, dryness, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, immunosuppressive events and skin sensitization reactions. The use of aftersun products is an effective strategy to reduce the visible signs and symptoms of acute photodamage in the skin. Aiming to unveil the active ingredients able to offset acute sun damage, this work focuses on the characterization of the aftersun products market. A total of 84 after-sun formulations from 41 international brands currently marketed in Portugal were analyzed concerning the composition described on the product label, identifying natural and synthetic/semi-synthetic ingredients with the ability to mitigate solar-induced effects. The majority of aftersun formulations contained ingredients derived from terrestrial and marine sources (> 80%). An in-depth examination of these compounds is also offered, revealing the top of the most used natural and synthetic/semi-synthetic ingredients present in aftersun products, as well as their mechanism of action. A critical appraisal of the scientific data was made aiming to highlight the scientific evidence of ingredients able to mitigate skin photodamage. Amino acids and peptides, and A. barbadensis extract were tested for their in vivo efficacy. Nevertheless, all the ingredients were analyzed with in vitro studies as preliminary screening before in vivo, ex vivo and/or clinical studies. In summary, this study provides an overview of the use of active ingredients in commercial aftersun products to understand better the benefits associated with their use in cosmetic formulations and identify opportunities for innovation. Graphical abstract