Long wave forcing on a barred beach

• Published in: Journal of fluid mechanics Vol. 503; pp. 321 - 343
• Main Authors: BALDOCK, T. E., O'HARE, T. J., HUNTLEY, D. A.
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: Cambridge, UK Cambridge University Press 25.03.2004
• Subjects: Beaches; Coastal oceanography, estuaries. Regional oceanography; Earth, ocean, space; Exact sciences and technology; External geophysics; Fluid mechanics; Mathematical models; Physics of the oceans; Shorelines; Surf; Surface waves, tides and sea level. Seiches; Water levels; Wave height; Long wave; Beaches; Seiche; Resonant process; Wave breaking; Coastal zone; Shorelines; Wave amplification; Trapping; Sand bar; Topography; Ocean wave; Numerical simulation; Forcing; Surf zone; Standing wave
• ISSN: 0022-1120; 1469-7645
• DOI: 10.1017/S002211200400792X

We present new laboratory data on long wave forcing over a barred beach profile under random wave breaking conditions. The data include incident and radiated wave amplitudes, wave set-up, and detailed measurements of the cross-shore variation in long wave amplitude, including shoreline (swash) amplitudes. The total surf zone width was varied via changes in both wave height and the water level over the bar crest. The data obtained from the barred beach are also compared with previous data obtained from a plane beach under essentially identical short wave forcing conditions. The presence of the bar induces a frequency downshift in the spectral peak of the radiated long waves, a consequence of the increased surf zone width on the barred beach and a clear signature of long wave forcing by a time-varying breakpoint. Further comparisons of the two data sets suggest that the bar leads to resonant trapping and amplification (or suppression) of the shoreline motion at discrete long wave frequencies. Well-defined standing long wave motion occurs at discrete frequencies inside the bar and the resonant response is consistent with a simple seiche between the bar crest and shoreline, in agreement with previous numerical model studies. The long wave structure offshore of the breakpoint depends on the relative positions of the bar, shoreline and breakpoint, and is inconsistent with a numerical solution for a free standing long wave over the barred beach profile.