THE GARDEN SPOT OF KINGS

• Published in: The New York times
• Main Authors: February., Guy Walton, GUY WALTON, associate professor of fine arts at New York University, is co-chairman of the Colloque Versailles, a scholarly meeting. His ''Louis XIV's Versailles'' will be published by the University of Chicago Press in
• Format: Newspaper Article
• Language: English
• Published: New York, N.Y New York Times Company 15.09.1985
• Edition: Late Edition (East Coast)
• Subjects: Beatrice, Mary; Le Notre, Andre
• ISSN: 0362-4331

Andre Le Notre, the great gardener who created the Versailles park, was rather miffed when Mansart, the architect in charge of the chateau, put up the structure. Legend has it that when pressed for his opinion Le Notre, always the diplomat, answered, ''What can you expect from an architect?'' We can still find several of the splendid bosquets viewed by [Mary Beatrice]. One of my favorites is the dramatic Enceladus, which much of the description of the ''Mercure Galant'' of 1686 still fits: ''One sees the giant crushed by the rocks which he had pried out of the ground to climb up to heaven. What is shown of Enceladus is four times larger than nature. From his mouth comes a water jet 24 feet high, and an infinite number of small ones stream out between the pebbles into which he sinks.'' Louis XIV reminds the world of what happens to those who seek to rise above their station in life. Be warned, however, that a stroll below the terrace at Versailles, coupled with a visit to the Grand Trianon, is a substantial undertaking. The walking can amount to more than two miles, and while the descent is easy even a slow walk back to the chateau requires some strength and good shoes. Louis XIV in his 60's and 70's was pulled around on a small wheeled chair. Making a day of it from Paris Getting There Versailles can be reached from Paris by a suburban train that makes several stops along the left bank of the Seine, notably at the Pont St. Michel, the Invalides Station and the Pont d'Alma. The journey takes about an hour. By car, Versailles is 17 miles from Paris on the Autoroute de l'Est and the turnoff is well marked. There is a huge parking area directly in front of the chateau. Some visitors may prefer to return to their cars and drive to the Grand Trianon, where there is adequate parking. Prices La Flotille restaurant at Versailles has tourist menus at around $7 to $12. An average a la carte meal with wine costs about $19 a person. The a la carte menu includes feuillete de Roquefort, fricassee d'escargots, sole with fennel, pressed duck and rack of lamb. The chocolate marquise is a fitting end to a meal.