云南普洱佤族织锦传统工艺分析
TS105.14; 佤族织锦是中国优秀的民族传统织锦之一,极具民族特色.佤族织锦技艺主要靠手口相传,缺乏具体的文字资料.随着佤族织锦技艺被列入国家级非物质文化遗产代表性项目名录,保护佤族织锦的任务迫在眉睫.为了更好传承佤族织锦传统技艺和优秀文化,推动佤族织锦的发展,本文通过对云南普洱佤族织锦的实地调查和研究,发现该地区织锦使用腰机织造,有棉锦、麻锦和混合锦三类,所用染料主要来自动植物及矿物提取.探究了佤族织锦常用染料的制备工艺,对佤族织锦所用织机及其织造工艺进行了研究,分析了佤族织锦的主要纹样及含义,其各式纹样体现了佤族人民对生命的热爱、与自然和谐相处的深刻寓意,是佤族人民的智慧结晶.本文可为...
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| Published in | 丝绸 Vol. 60; no. 12; pp. 99 - 105 |
|---|---|
| Main Authors | , , , , , |
| Format | Journal Article |
| Language | Chinese |
| Published |
中国丝绸博物馆,杭州 310002%浙江理工大学纺织科学与工程学院(国际丝绸学院),杭州 310018
02.12.2023
浙江理工大学国际丝绸与丝绸之路研究中心,杭州 310018%浙江理工大学纺织科学与工程学院(国际丝绸学院),杭州 310018 浙江理工大学纺织科学与工程学院(国际丝绸学院),杭州 310018 |
| Subjects | |
| Online Access | Get full text |
| ISSN | 1001-7003 |
| DOI | 10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2023.12.013 |
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| Abstract | TS105.14; 佤族织锦是中国优秀的民族传统织锦之一,极具民族特色.佤族织锦技艺主要靠手口相传,缺乏具体的文字资料.随着佤族织锦技艺被列入国家级非物质文化遗产代表性项目名录,保护佤族织锦的任务迫在眉睫.为了更好传承佤族织锦传统技艺和优秀文化,推动佤族织锦的发展,本文通过对云南普洱佤族织锦的实地调查和研究,发现该地区织锦使用腰机织造,有棉锦、麻锦和混合锦三类,所用染料主要来自动植物及矿物提取.探究了佤族织锦常用染料的制备工艺,对佤族织锦所用织机及其织造工艺进行了研究,分析了佤族织锦的主要纹样及含义,其各式纹样体现了佤族人民对生命的热爱、与自然和谐相处的深刻寓意,是佤族人民的智慧结晶.本文可为佤族织锦的保护与传承提供策略支撑. |
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| AbstractList | TS105.14; 佤族织锦是中国优秀的民族传统织锦之一,极具民族特色.佤族织锦技艺主要靠手口相传,缺乏具体的文字资料.随着佤族织锦技艺被列入国家级非物质文化遗产代表性项目名录,保护佤族织锦的任务迫在眉睫.为了更好传承佤族织锦传统技艺和优秀文化,推动佤族织锦的发展,本文通过对云南普洱佤族织锦的实地调查和研究,发现该地区织锦使用腰机织造,有棉锦、麻锦和混合锦三类,所用染料主要来自动植物及矿物提取.探究了佤族织锦常用染料的制备工艺,对佤族织锦所用织机及其织造工艺进行了研究,分析了佤族织锦的主要纹样及含义,其各式纹样体现了佤族人民对生命的热爱、与自然和谐相处的深刻寓意,是佤族人民的智慧结晶.本文可为佤族织锦的保护与传承提供策略支撑. |
| Abstract_FL | Wa brocade,as one of the outstanding ethnic traditional brocades in China,has distinct characteristic of ethnic minority culture.The Wa brocade weaving technique is mainly passed down from hand to hand,lacking specific written information.With the inclusion of the Wa brocade weaving technique in the list of representative items of national intangible cultural heritage,the task of protecting the Wa brocade weaving is imminent.To better inherit the traditional Wa brocade weaving skills and excellent culture and to promote the development of Wa brocade weaving,a series of studies were conducted on the basis of field research in Pu'er,southwest China's Yunnan province.
Through field investigation and research in the Wa gathering places,it is found that Wa brocade can be divided into three categories according to raw materials:cotton brocade,hemp brocade and mixed brocade,and the research focused on the entire textile process of cotton brocade,from planting,picking,ginning,bouncing,spindle-rolling,spinning,guiding,sizing,warping,loading,post-processing to the finished product.It is found that the raw materials of dyes used in Wa brocade mainly come from plants and animals and minerals,and there are color preferences of the Wa people and each color has its symbolism.As for the sources of dyes for the commonly used colors of the Wa people,the black color mainly comes from the fruits and roots of the acacia,the red color mainly comes from the violet gum of the violet gum worm's parasitized tree,the yellow color mainly comes from the yellow flower and the yellow soil,and the blue color mainly comes from the blue indigo grass.The preparation process of commonly used dyes mainly involves immersion,fermentation,precipitation and filtration,and the dyeing process of yam mainly consists of pre-treatment,immersion,steaming,dewatering and finishing with color.It is found that the loom used for Wa brocade weaving is the waist loom,which consists of tools such as warp beams,spreading rods,warping rods,heddle rods,beating-up knives,shuttles,cloth winding shafts,and belt.It is also found that there are two kinds of looms for Wa brocade weaving:plain weaving and jacquard weaving,and that both weaving methods can be completed by the four-step cycle of"1 weaving plain weave,2 weaving jacquard weave(weaving plain weave),3 weaving plain weave,and 4 weaving jacquard weave(weaving plain weave)".Wa brocade patterns are rich,among which animal patterns,plant patterns and geometric patterns are quite common.It is found through the study of the sources and meanings of the representative patterns that the Wa people believe in the religious concept of"Animism".
On this basis,we analyzed the Wa brocade purchased locally and conducted replication experiments on a small prototype machine,with a view to realizing the large-scale production of Wa brocade and expanding the market demand for Wa brocade,so as to better inherit and protect it.The Wa brocade weaving is the crystallization of the wisdom of the Wa people,and the love of life and the expectation of living in harmony with nature can be seen in all aspects of Wa brocade weaving.This study will provide strategic support for the protection and inheritance of Wa brocade weaving. |
| Author | 贺圣达 鲁佳亮 龙博 安薇竹 苏淼 徐诺 |
| AuthorAffiliation | 浙江理工大学纺织科学与工程学院(国际丝绸学院),杭州 310018;浙江理工大学国际丝绸与丝绸之路研究中心,杭州 310018%浙江理工大学纺织科学与工程学院(国际丝绸学院),杭州 310018;中国丝绸博物馆,杭州 310002%浙江理工大学纺织科学与工程学院(国际丝绸学院),杭州 310018 |
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| Author_FL | SU Miao LU Jialiang HE Shengda LONG Bo XU Nuo AN Weizhu |
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| DocumentTitle_FL | Traditional technology analysis of brocade of Pu'er Wa ethnic group in Yunnan |
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| Issue | 12 |
| Keywords | 纹样 dye loom 织造工艺 weaving technology Wa brocade dermatoglyphic pattern 染料 replication experiments 织机 复制实验 佤族织锦 |
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| Title | 云南普洱佤族织锦传统工艺分析 |
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