Twelve-point scale grading system of scanning electron microscopic examination to investigate subtle changes in damaged hair surface

Background To assess the hair surface condition, scanning electron microscope (SEM) is commonly used and it remains an indispensable hair morphology characterization technique. Yet, the technique is criticized for having subjective viewpoints and limitations in distinguishing the appearance of cutic...

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Published inSkin research and technology Vol. 22; no. 4; pp. 406 - 411
Main Authors Lee, S. Y., Choi, A. R., Baek, J. H., Kim, H. O., Shin, M. K., Koh, J. S.
Format Journal Article
LanguageEnglish
Published England Blackwell Publishing Ltd 01.11.2016
John Wiley & Sons, Inc
Subjects
Online AccessGet full text
ISSN0909-752X
1600-0846
DOI10.1111/srt.12279

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Abstract Background To assess the hair surface condition, scanning electron microscope (SEM) is commonly used and it remains an indispensable hair morphology characterization technique. Yet, the technique is criticized for having subjective viewpoints and limitations in distinguishing the appearance of cuticle layers. Objectives The aim of this study is to establish an objective classification system and also to subdivide by detailed description of damaged cuticle layers. Methods Hair samples were collected from female subjects (n = 500) who participated in hair efficacy study and Asian hair bunches (n = 180) that were previously collected. Damage to hair was initiated by chemical, heat stress and ultraviolet irradiation. We suggested the grading criterion on a 12‐point scale and compared with a wide range grading system on a 5‐point scale. We evaluated other hair surface‐related parameters such as hair luster‐ring and combing load to verify the validity and efficacy of our new grading system. Results The grading criterion on our 12‐point scale revealed an improved discrimination compared to the wide range grading system. Hair surface‐related parameters were significantly improved after hair care product, and these tendencies were likely to be determined to be similarly improved using the 12‐point scale grading system. Conclusion The 12‐point scale classification system was demonstrated to be a more precise standardization and appropriate evaluation method to investigate the subtle distinction of the hair shaft after hair care product application.
AbstractList To assess the hair surface condition, scanning electron microscope (SEM) is commonly used and it remains an indispensable hair morphology characterization technique. Yet, the technique is criticized for having subjective viewpoints and limitations in distinguishing the appearance of cuticle layers. The aim of this study is to establish an objective classification system and also to subdivide by detailed description of damaged cuticle layers. Hair samples were collected from female subjects (n = 500) who participated in hair efficacy study and Asian hair bunches (n = 180) that were previously collected. Damage to hair was initiated by chemical, heat stress and ultraviolet irradiation. We suggested the grading criterion on a 12-point scale and compared with a wide range grading system on a 5-point scale. We evaluated other hair surface-related parameters such as hair luster-ring and combing load to verify the validity and efficacy of our new grading system. The grading criterion on our 12-point scale revealed an improved discrimination compared to the wide range grading system. Hair surface-related parameters were significantly improved after hair care product, and these tendencies were likely to be determined to be similarly improved using the 12-point scale grading system. The 12-point scale classification system was demonstrated to be a more precise standardization and appropriate evaluation method to investigate the subtle distinction of the hair shaft after hair care product application.
Background To assess the hair surface condition, scanning electron microscope (SEM) is commonly used and it remains an indispensable hair morphology characterization technique. Yet, the technique is criticized for having subjective viewpoints and limitations in distinguishing the appearance of cuticle layers. Objectives The aim of this study is to establish an objective classification system and also to subdivide by detailed description of damaged cuticle layers. Methods Hair samples were collected from female subjects (n = 500) who participated in hair efficacy study and Asian hair bunches (n = 180) that were previously collected. Damage to hair was initiated by chemical, heat stress and ultraviolet irradiation. We suggested the grading criterion on a 12-point scale and compared with a wide range grading system on a 5-point scale. We evaluated other hair surface-related parameters such as hair luster-ring and combing load to verify the validity and efficacy of our new grading system. Results The grading criterion on our 12-point scale revealed an improved discrimination compared to the wide range grading system. Hair surface-related parameters were significantly improved after hair care product, and these tendencies were likely to be determined to be similarly improved using the 12-point scale grading system. Conclusion The 12-point scale classification system was demonstrated to be a more precise standardization and appropriate evaluation method to investigate the subtle distinction of the hair shaft after hair care product application.
Background To assess the hair surface condition, scanning electron microscope (SEM) is commonly used and it remains an indispensable hair morphology characterization technique. Yet, the technique is criticized for having subjective viewpoints and limitations in distinguishing the appearance of cuticle layers. Objectives The aim of this study is to establish an objective classification system and also to subdivide by detailed description of damaged cuticle layers. Methods Hair samples were collected from female subjects (n = 500) who participated in hair efficacy study and Asian hair bunches (n = 180) that were previously collected. Damage to hair was initiated by chemical, heat stress and ultraviolet irradiation. We suggested the grading criterion on a 12‐point scale and compared with a wide range grading system on a 5‐point scale. We evaluated other hair surface‐related parameters such as hair luster‐ring and combing load to verify the validity and efficacy of our new grading system. Results The grading criterion on our 12‐point scale revealed an improved discrimination compared to the wide range grading system. Hair surface‐related parameters were significantly improved after hair care product, and these tendencies were likely to be determined to be similarly improved using the 12‐point scale grading system. Conclusion The 12‐point scale classification system was demonstrated to be a more precise standardization and appropriate evaluation method to investigate the subtle distinction of the hair shaft after hair care product application.
Author Koh, J. S.
Kim, H. O.
Lee, S. Y.
Choi, A. R.
Shin, M. K.
Baek, J. H.
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Issue 4
Keywords scanning electron microscopic examination
hair grading system
damaged hair surface
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References Lee Y, Kim YD, Pi LQ, Lee SY, Hong H, Lee WS. Comparison of hair shaft damage after chemical treatment in Asian, White European, and African hair. Int J Dermatol 2014; 53: 1103-1110.
Brown AC, Swift JA. Hair breakage: the scanning electron microscope as a diagnostic tool. J Soc Comet Chem 1975; 26: 289-299.
Signori V; BASF, Corp. Review of the current understanding of the effect of ultraviolet and visible radiation on hair structure and options for photoprotection. J Cosmet Sci 2004; 55: 95-113.
McMullen R, Jachowicz J. Optical properties of hair: effect of treatments on luster as quantified by image analysis. J Cosmet Sci 2003; 54: 335-351.
Robinson VNE. A study of damaged hair. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1976; 27: 155-161.
Garcia ML, Diaz J. Combability measurements on human hair. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1976; 27: 379-398.
Tolgyesi E. Weathering of hair. Cosmet Toil 1983; 98: 29-33.
Pande CM, Jachowicz J. Hair photodamage: measurement and prevention. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1998; 49: 309-320.
Jeon SY, Pi LQ, Lee WS. Comparison of hair shaft damage after UVA and UVB irradiation. J Cosmet Sci 2008; 59: 151-156.
Poletti G, Orsini F, Lenaedi C, Barborini E. A comparative study between AFM and SEM imaging on human scalp hair. J Microsc 2003; 211 (Pt3): 249-255.
Pavlov I. Study of cuticle patterns of head hairs by scanning electron microscopy. Sud Med Ekspert 2000; 43: 31-32.
Hearle JW. A critical review of the structural mechanics of wool and hair fibres. Int J Biol Macromol 2000; 27: 123-138.
Swift JA. Fine details on the surface of human hair. Int J Cosmet Sci 1991; 13: 143-159.
Hunter LD, Garcia ML. Observation of the internal structure of the human hair cuticle cell by SEM. Text Res J 1974; 44: 136-140.
Ruetsch SB, Kamath Y, Weigmann HD. Photodegradation of human hair: an SEM study. J Cosmet Sci 2000; 51: 103-125.
Garcia MG. The cracking of human hair cuticles by cyclical thermal stresses. J Cosmet Sci 1998; 49: 141-153.
Kim YD, Jeon SY, Ji JH, Lee WS. Development of a classification system for extrinsic hair damage: standard grading of electron microscopic findings of damaged hairs. Am J Dermatopathol 2010; 32: 432-438.
Ji JH, Park TS, Lee HJ, Kim YD, Pi LQ, Jin XH, Lee WS. The ethnic differences of the damage of hair and integral hair lipid after ultra violet radiation. Ann Dermatol 2013; 25: 54-60.
Lee Y, Kim YD, Hyun HJ, Pi LQ, Jin X, Lee WS. Hair shaft damage from heat and drying time of hair dryer. Ann Dermatol 2011; 23: 455-462.
Nagase S, Kajiura Y, Mamada A, Abe H, Shibuichi S, Satoh N, Itou T, Shinohara Y, Amemiya Y. Changes in structure and geometric properties of human hair by aging. J Cosmet Sci 2009; 60: 637-648.
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References_xml – reference: Hearle JW. A critical review of the structural mechanics of wool and hair fibres. Int J Biol Macromol 2000; 27: 123-138.
– reference: Nagase S, Kajiura Y, Mamada A, Abe H, Shibuichi S, Satoh N, Itou T, Shinohara Y, Amemiya Y. Changes in structure and geometric properties of human hair by aging. J Cosmet Sci 2009; 60: 637-648.
– reference: Jeon SY, Pi LQ, Lee WS. Comparison of hair shaft damage after UVA and UVB irradiation. J Cosmet Sci 2008; 59: 151-156.
– reference: Brown AC, Swift JA. Hair breakage: the scanning electron microscope as a diagnostic tool. J Soc Comet Chem 1975; 26: 289-299.
– reference: Lee Y, Kim YD, Pi LQ, Lee SY, Hong H, Lee WS. Comparison of hair shaft damage after chemical treatment in Asian, White European, and African hair. Int J Dermatol 2014; 53: 1103-1110.
– reference: Ruetsch SB, Kamath Y, Weigmann HD. Photodegradation of human hair: an SEM study. J Cosmet Sci 2000; 51: 103-125.
– reference: Pavlov I. Study of cuticle patterns of head hairs by scanning electron microscopy. Sud Med Ekspert 2000; 43: 31-32.
– reference: Pande CM, Jachowicz J. Hair photodamage: measurement and prevention. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1998; 49: 309-320.
– reference: Swift JA. Fine details on the surface of human hair. Int J Cosmet Sci 1991; 13: 143-159.
– reference: Garcia ML, Diaz J. Combability measurements on human hair. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1976; 27: 379-398.
– reference: Poletti G, Orsini F, Lenaedi C, Barborini E. A comparative study between AFM and SEM imaging on human scalp hair. J Microsc 2003; 211 (Pt3): 249-255.
– reference: Signori V; BASF, Corp. Review of the current understanding of the effect of ultraviolet and visible radiation on hair structure and options for photoprotection. J Cosmet Sci 2004; 55: 95-113.
– reference: Hunter LD, Garcia ML. Observation of the internal structure of the human hair cuticle cell by SEM. Text Res J 1974; 44: 136-140.
– reference: Robinson VNE. A study of damaged hair. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1976; 27: 155-161.
– reference: Garcia MG. The cracking of human hair cuticles by cyclical thermal stresses. J Cosmet Sci 1998; 49: 141-153.
– reference: Tolgyesi E. Weathering of hair. Cosmet Toil 1983; 98: 29-33.
– reference: McMullen R, Jachowicz J. Optical properties of hair: effect of treatments on luster as quantified by image analysis. J Cosmet Sci 2003; 54: 335-351.
– reference: Ji JH, Park TS, Lee HJ, Kim YD, Pi LQ, Jin XH, Lee WS. The ethnic differences of the damage of hair and integral hair lipid after ultra violet radiation. Ann Dermatol 2013; 25: 54-60.
– reference: Lee Y, Kim YD, Hyun HJ, Pi LQ, Jin X, Lee WS. Hair shaft damage from heat and drying time of hair dryer. Ann Dermatol 2011; 23: 455-462.
– reference: Kim YD, Jeon SY, Ji JH, Lee WS. Development of a classification system for extrinsic hair damage: standard grading of electron microscopic findings of damaged hairs. Am J Dermatopathol 2010; 32: 432-438.
– volume: 53
  start-page: 1103
  year: 2014
  end-page: 1110
  article-title: Comparison of hair shaft damage after chemical treatment in Asian, White European, and African hair
  publication-title: Int J Dermatol
– volume: 32
  start-page: 432
  year: 2010
  end-page: 438
  article-title: Development of a classification system for extrinsic hair damage: standard grading of electron microscopic findings of damaged hairs
  publication-title: Am J Dermatopathol
– volume: 27
  start-page: 155
  year: 1976
  end-page: 161
  article-title: A study of damaged hair
  publication-title: J Soc Cosmet Chem
– volume: 98
  start-page: 29
  year: 1983
  end-page: 33
  article-title: Weathering of hair
  publication-title: Cosmet Toil
– volume: 49
  start-page: 309
  year: 1998
  end-page: 320
  article-title: Hair photodamage: measurement and prevention
  publication-title: J Soc Cosmet Chem
– volume: 49
  start-page: 141
  year: 1998
  end-page: 153
  article-title: The cracking of human hair cuticles by cyclical thermal stresses
  publication-title: J Cosmet Sci
– volume: 55
  start-page: 95
  year: 2004
  end-page: 113
  article-title: Review of the current understanding of the effect of ultraviolet and visible radiation on hair structure and options for photoprotection
  publication-title: J Cosmet Sci
– volume: 25
  start-page: 54
  year: 2013
  end-page: 60
  article-title: The ethnic differences of the damage of hair and integral hair lipid after ultra violet radiation
  publication-title: Ann Dermatol
– volume: 211
  start-page: 249
  issue: Pt3
  year: 2003
  end-page: 255
  article-title: A comparative study between AFM and SEM imaging on human scalp hair
  publication-title: J Microsc
– volume: 51
  start-page: 103
  year: 2000
  end-page: 125
  article-title: Photodegradation of human hair: an SEM study
  publication-title: J Cosmet Sci
– volume: 27
  start-page: 379
  year: 1976
  end-page: 398
  article-title: Combability measurements on human hair
  publication-title: J Soc Cosmet Chem
– volume: 26
  start-page: 289
  year: 1975
  end-page: 299
  article-title: Hair breakage: the scanning electron microscope as a diagnostic tool
  publication-title: J Soc Comet Chem
– volume: 43
  start-page: 31
  year: 2000
  end-page: 32
  article-title: Study of cuticle patterns of head hairs by scanning electron microscopy
  publication-title: Sud Med Ekspert
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Snippet Background To assess the hair surface condition, scanning electron microscope (SEM) is commonly used and it remains an indispensable hair morphology...
To assess the hair surface condition, scanning electron microscope (SEM) is commonly used and it remains an indispensable hair morphology characterization...
Background To assess the hair surface condition, scanning electron microscope (SEM) is commonly used and it remains an indispensable hair morphology...
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StartPage 406
SubjectTerms Academic grading
Adult
damaged hair surface
Diagnosis, Differential
Female
Hair - drug effects
Hair - pathology
Hair - ultrastructure
Hair Diseases - chemically induced
Hair Diseases - pathology
hair grading system
Hair Preparations - adverse effects
Humans
Image Enhancement - methods
Image Interpretation, Computer-Assisted - methods
Microscopy, Electron, Scanning - methods
Middle Aged
Reproducibility of Results
scanning electron microscopic examination
Sensitivity and Specificity
Severity of Illness Index
Young Adult
Title Twelve-point scale grading system of scanning electron microscopic examination to investigate subtle changes in damaged hair surface
URI https://api.istex.fr/ark:/67375/WNG-8L956N6D-K/fulltext.pdf
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111%2Fsrt.12279
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26792196
https://www.proquest.com/docview/1826400305
https://www.proquest.com/docview/1837304719
Volume 22
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