Twelve-point scale grading system of scanning electron microscopic examination to investigate subtle changes in damaged hair surface
Background To assess the hair surface condition, scanning electron microscope (SEM) is commonly used and it remains an indispensable hair morphology characterization technique. Yet, the technique is criticized for having subjective viewpoints and limitations in distinguishing the appearance of cutic...
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Published in | Skin research and technology Vol. 22; no. 4; pp. 406 - 411 |
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Main Authors | , , , , , |
Format | Journal Article |
Language | English |
Published |
England
Blackwell Publishing Ltd
01.11.2016
John Wiley & Sons, Inc |
Subjects | |
Online Access | Get full text |
ISSN | 0909-752X 1600-0846 |
DOI | 10.1111/srt.12279 |
Cover
Abstract | Background
To assess the hair surface condition, scanning electron microscope (SEM) is commonly used and it remains an indispensable hair morphology characterization technique. Yet, the technique is criticized for having subjective viewpoints and limitations in distinguishing the appearance of cuticle layers.
Objectives
The aim of this study is to establish an objective classification system and also to subdivide by detailed description of damaged cuticle layers.
Methods
Hair samples were collected from female subjects (n = 500) who participated in hair efficacy study and Asian hair bunches (n = 180) that were previously collected. Damage to hair was initiated by chemical, heat stress and ultraviolet irradiation. We suggested the grading criterion on a 12‐point scale and compared with a wide range grading system on a 5‐point scale. We evaluated other hair surface‐related parameters such as hair luster‐ring and combing load to verify the validity and efficacy of our new grading system.
Results
The grading criterion on our 12‐point scale revealed an improved discrimination compared to the wide range grading system. Hair surface‐related parameters were significantly improved after hair care product, and these tendencies were likely to be determined to be similarly improved using the 12‐point scale grading system.
Conclusion
The 12‐point scale classification system was demonstrated to be a more precise standardization and appropriate evaluation method to investigate the subtle distinction of the hair shaft after hair care product application. |
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AbstractList | To assess the hair surface condition, scanning electron microscope (SEM) is commonly used and it remains an indispensable hair morphology characterization technique. Yet, the technique is criticized for having subjective viewpoints and limitations in distinguishing the appearance of cuticle layers.
The aim of this study is to establish an objective classification system and also to subdivide by detailed description of damaged cuticle layers.
Hair samples were collected from female subjects (n = 500) who participated in hair efficacy study and Asian hair bunches (n = 180) that were previously collected. Damage to hair was initiated by chemical, heat stress and ultraviolet irradiation. We suggested the grading criterion on a 12-point scale and compared with a wide range grading system on a 5-point scale. We evaluated other hair surface-related parameters such as hair luster-ring and combing load to verify the validity and efficacy of our new grading system.
The grading criterion on our 12-point scale revealed an improved discrimination compared to the wide range grading system. Hair surface-related parameters were significantly improved after hair care product, and these tendencies were likely to be determined to be similarly improved using the 12-point scale grading system.
The 12-point scale classification system was demonstrated to be a more precise standardization and appropriate evaluation method to investigate the subtle distinction of the hair shaft after hair care product application. Background To assess the hair surface condition, scanning electron microscope (SEM) is commonly used and it remains an indispensable hair morphology characterization technique. Yet, the technique is criticized for having subjective viewpoints and limitations in distinguishing the appearance of cuticle layers. Objectives The aim of this study is to establish an objective classification system and also to subdivide by detailed description of damaged cuticle layers. Methods Hair samples were collected from female subjects (n = 500) who participated in hair efficacy study and Asian hair bunches (n = 180) that were previously collected. Damage to hair was initiated by chemical, heat stress and ultraviolet irradiation. We suggested the grading criterion on a 12-point scale and compared with a wide range grading system on a 5-point scale. We evaluated other hair surface-related parameters such as hair luster-ring and combing load to verify the validity and efficacy of our new grading system. Results The grading criterion on our 12-point scale revealed an improved discrimination compared to the wide range grading system. Hair surface-related parameters were significantly improved after hair care product, and these tendencies were likely to be determined to be similarly improved using the 12-point scale grading system. Conclusion The 12-point scale classification system was demonstrated to be a more precise standardization and appropriate evaluation method to investigate the subtle distinction of the hair shaft after hair care product application. Background To assess the hair surface condition, scanning electron microscope (SEM) is commonly used and it remains an indispensable hair morphology characterization technique. Yet, the technique is criticized for having subjective viewpoints and limitations in distinguishing the appearance of cuticle layers. Objectives The aim of this study is to establish an objective classification system and also to subdivide by detailed description of damaged cuticle layers. Methods Hair samples were collected from female subjects (n = 500) who participated in hair efficacy study and Asian hair bunches (n = 180) that were previously collected. Damage to hair was initiated by chemical, heat stress and ultraviolet irradiation. We suggested the grading criterion on a 12‐point scale and compared with a wide range grading system on a 5‐point scale. We evaluated other hair surface‐related parameters such as hair luster‐ring and combing load to verify the validity and efficacy of our new grading system. Results The grading criterion on our 12‐point scale revealed an improved discrimination compared to the wide range grading system. Hair surface‐related parameters were significantly improved after hair care product, and these tendencies were likely to be determined to be similarly improved using the 12‐point scale grading system. Conclusion The 12‐point scale classification system was demonstrated to be a more precise standardization and appropriate evaluation method to investigate the subtle distinction of the hair shaft after hair care product application. |
Author | Koh, J. S. Kim, H. O. Lee, S. Y. Choi, A. R. Shin, M. K. Baek, J. H. |
Author_xml | – sequence: 1 givenname: S. Y. surname: Lee fullname: Lee, S. Y. organization: Dermapro LTD, Skin Research Center, Seoul, Korea – sequence: 2 givenname: A. R. surname: Choi fullname: Choi, A. R. organization: Dermapro LTD, Skin Research Center, Seoul, Korea – sequence: 3 givenname: J. H. surname: Baek fullname: Baek, J. H. organization: Dermapro LTD, Skin Research Center, Seoul, Korea – sequence: 4 givenname: H. O. surname: Kim fullname: Kim, H. O. organization: Dermapro LTD, Skin Research Center, Seoul, Korea – sequence: 5 givenname: M. K. surname: Shin fullname: Shin, M. K. organization: Department of Dermatology, Kyung Hee University Hospital, Seoul, Korea – sequence: 6 givenname: J. S. surname: Koh fullname: Koh, J. S. email: dermapro@dermapro.co.kr, dermapro@dermapro.co.kr organization: Dermapro LTD, Skin Research Center, Seoul, Korea |
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Cites_doi | 10.5021/ad.2011.23.4.455 10.1097/DAD.0b013e3181c38549 10.1046/j.1365-2818.2003.01220.x 10.1016/S0141-8130(00)00116-1 10.1177/004051757404400208 10.1007/978-3-0348-9223-0_4 10.1111/j.1467-2494.1991.tb00558.x 10.5021/ad.2013.25.1.54 10.1111/j.1467-2494.2005.00261.x 10.1111/ijd.12247 |
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References | Lee Y, Kim YD, Pi LQ, Lee SY, Hong H, Lee WS. Comparison of hair shaft damage after chemical treatment in Asian, White European, and African hair. Int J Dermatol 2014; 53: 1103-1110. Brown AC, Swift JA. Hair breakage: the scanning electron microscope as a diagnostic tool. J Soc Comet Chem 1975; 26: 289-299. Signori V; BASF, Corp. Review of the current understanding of the effect of ultraviolet and visible radiation on hair structure and options for photoprotection. J Cosmet Sci 2004; 55: 95-113. McMullen R, Jachowicz J. Optical properties of hair: effect of treatments on luster as quantified by image analysis. J Cosmet Sci 2003; 54: 335-351. Robinson VNE. A study of damaged hair. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1976; 27: 155-161. Garcia ML, Diaz J. Combability measurements on human hair. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1976; 27: 379-398. Tolgyesi E. Weathering of hair. Cosmet Toil 1983; 98: 29-33. Pande CM, Jachowicz J. Hair photodamage: measurement and prevention. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1998; 49: 309-320. Jeon SY, Pi LQ, Lee WS. Comparison of hair shaft damage after UVA and UVB irradiation. J Cosmet Sci 2008; 59: 151-156. Poletti G, Orsini F, Lenaedi C, Barborini E. A comparative study between AFM and SEM imaging on human scalp hair. J Microsc 2003; 211 (Pt3): 249-255. Pavlov I. Study of cuticle patterns of head hairs by scanning electron microscopy. Sud Med Ekspert 2000; 43: 31-32. Hearle JW. A critical review of the structural mechanics of wool and hair fibres. Int J Biol Macromol 2000; 27: 123-138. Swift JA. Fine details on the surface of human hair. Int J Cosmet Sci 1991; 13: 143-159. Hunter LD, Garcia ML. Observation of the internal structure of the human hair cuticle cell by SEM. Text Res J 1974; 44: 136-140. Ruetsch SB, Kamath Y, Weigmann HD. Photodegradation of human hair: an SEM study. J Cosmet Sci 2000; 51: 103-125. Garcia MG. The cracking of human hair cuticles by cyclical thermal stresses. J Cosmet Sci 1998; 49: 141-153. Kim YD, Jeon SY, Ji JH, Lee WS. Development of a classification system for extrinsic hair damage: standard grading of electron microscopic findings of damaged hairs. Am J Dermatopathol 2010; 32: 432-438. Ji JH, Park TS, Lee HJ, Kim YD, Pi LQ, Jin XH, Lee WS. The ethnic differences of the damage of hair and integral hair lipid after ultra violet radiation. Ann Dermatol 2013; 25: 54-60. Lee Y, Kim YD, Hyun HJ, Pi LQ, Jin X, Lee WS. Hair shaft damage from heat and drying time of hair dryer. Ann Dermatol 2011; 23: 455-462. Nagase S, Kajiura Y, Mamada A, Abe H, Shibuichi S, Satoh N, Itou T, Shinohara Y, Amemiya Y. Changes in structure and geometric properties of human hair by aging. J Cosmet Sci 2009; 60: 637-648. 1998; 49 2004; 55 2010; 32 2013; 25 1974; 44 2000; 27 1991; 13 2009; 60 2000; 43 1983; 98 2000; 51 2008; 59 1997 1975; 26 2011; 23 1976; 27 2003; 211 2003; 54 2014; 53 e_1_2_5_14_1 Jeon SY (e_1_2_5_17_1) 2008; 59 e_1_2_5_9_1 e_1_2_5_16_1 Tolgyesi E (e_1_2_5_2_1) 1983; 98 Garcia MG (e_1_2_5_6_1) 1998; 49 e_1_2_5_13_1 e_1_2_5_21_1 e_1_2_5_5_1 e_1_2_5_4_1 e_1_2_5_3_1 e_1_2_5_19_1 e_1_2_5_18_1 Pavlov I (e_1_2_5_20_1) 2000; 43 Nagase S (e_1_2_5_11_1) 2009; 60 Pande CM (e_1_2_5_7_1) 1998; 49 Ruetsch SB (e_1_2_5_15_1) 2000; 51 Signori V (e_1_2_5_8_1) 2004; 55 Brown AC (e_1_2_5_22_1) 1975; 26 Garcia ML (e_1_2_5_12_1) 1976; 27 McMullen R (e_1_2_5_10_1) 2003; 54 |
References_xml | – reference: Hearle JW. A critical review of the structural mechanics of wool and hair fibres. Int J Biol Macromol 2000; 27: 123-138. – reference: Nagase S, Kajiura Y, Mamada A, Abe H, Shibuichi S, Satoh N, Itou T, Shinohara Y, Amemiya Y. Changes in structure and geometric properties of human hair by aging. J Cosmet Sci 2009; 60: 637-648. – reference: Jeon SY, Pi LQ, Lee WS. Comparison of hair shaft damage after UVA and UVB irradiation. J Cosmet Sci 2008; 59: 151-156. – reference: Brown AC, Swift JA. Hair breakage: the scanning electron microscope as a diagnostic tool. J Soc Comet Chem 1975; 26: 289-299. – reference: Lee Y, Kim YD, Pi LQ, Lee SY, Hong H, Lee WS. Comparison of hair shaft damage after chemical treatment in Asian, White European, and African hair. Int J Dermatol 2014; 53: 1103-1110. – reference: Ruetsch SB, Kamath Y, Weigmann HD. Photodegradation of human hair: an SEM study. J Cosmet Sci 2000; 51: 103-125. – reference: Pavlov I. Study of cuticle patterns of head hairs by scanning electron microscopy. Sud Med Ekspert 2000; 43: 31-32. – reference: Pande CM, Jachowicz J. Hair photodamage: measurement and prevention. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1998; 49: 309-320. – reference: Swift JA. Fine details on the surface of human hair. Int J Cosmet Sci 1991; 13: 143-159. – reference: Garcia ML, Diaz J. Combability measurements on human hair. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1976; 27: 379-398. – reference: Poletti G, Orsini F, Lenaedi C, Barborini E. A comparative study between AFM and SEM imaging on human scalp hair. J Microsc 2003; 211 (Pt3): 249-255. – reference: Signori V; BASF, Corp. Review of the current understanding of the effect of ultraviolet and visible radiation on hair structure and options for photoprotection. J Cosmet Sci 2004; 55: 95-113. – reference: Hunter LD, Garcia ML. Observation of the internal structure of the human hair cuticle cell by SEM. Text Res J 1974; 44: 136-140. – reference: Robinson VNE. A study of damaged hair. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1976; 27: 155-161. – reference: Garcia MG. The cracking of human hair cuticles by cyclical thermal stresses. J Cosmet Sci 1998; 49: 141-153. – reference: Tolgyesi E. Weathering of hair. Cosmet Toil 1983; 98: 29-33. – reference: McMullen R, Jachowicz J. Optical properties of hair: effect of treatments on luster as quantified by image analysis. J Cosmet Sci 2003; 54: 335-351. – reference: Ji JH, Park TS, Lee HJ, Kim YD, Pi LQ, Jin XH, Lee WS. The ethnic differences of the damage of hair and integral hair lipid after ultra violet radiation. Ann Dermatol 2013; 25: 54-60. – reference: Lee Y, Kim YD, Hyun HJ, Pi LQ, Jin X, Lee WS. Hair shaft damage from heat and drying time of hair dryer. Ann Dermatol 2011; 23: 455-462. – reference: Kim YD, Jeon SY, Ji JH, Lee WS. Development of a classification system for extrinsic hair damage: standard grading of electron microscopic findings of damaged hairs. Am J Dermatopathol 2010; 32: 432-438. – volume: 53 start-page: 1103 year: 2014 end-page: 1110 article-title: Comparison of hair shaft damage after chemical treatment in Asian, White European, and African hair publication-title: Int J Dermatol – volume: 32 start-page: 432 year: 2010 end-page: 438 article-title: Development of a classification system for extrinsic hair damage: standard grading of electron microscopic findings of damaged hairs publication-title: Am J Dermatopathol – volume: 27 start-page: 155 year: 1976 end-page: 161 article-title: A study of damaged hair publication-title: J Soc Cosmet Chem – volume: 98 start-page: 29 year: 1983 end-page: 33 article-title: Weathering of hair publication-title: Cosmet Toil – volume: 49 start-page: 309 year: 1998 end-page: 320 article-title: Hair photodamage: measurement and prevention publication-title: J Soc Cosmet Chem – volume: 49 start-page: 141 year: 1998 end-page: 153 article-title: The cracking of human hair cuticles by cyclical thermal stresses publication-title: J Cosmet Sci – volume: 55 start-page: 95 year: 2004 end-page: 113 article-title: Review of the current understanding of the effect of ultraviolet and visible radiation on hair structure and options for photoprotection publication-title: J Cosmet Sci – volume: 25 start-page: 54 year: 2013 end-page: 60 article-title: The ethnic differences of the damage of hair and integral hair lipid after ultra violet radiation publication-title: Ann Dermatol – volume: 211 start-page: 249 issue: Pt3 year: 2003 end-page: 255 article-title: A comparative study between AFM and SEM imaging on human scalp hair publication-title: J Microsc – volume: 51 start-page: 103 year: 2000 end-page: 125 article-title: Photodegradation of human hair: an SEM study publication-title: J Cosmet Sci – volume: 27 start-page: 379 year: 1976 end-page: 398 article-title: Combability measurements on human hair publication-title: J Soc Cosmet Chem – volume: 26 start-page: 289 year: 1975 end-page: 299 article-title: Hair breakage: the scanning electron microscope as a diagnostic tool publication-title: J Soc Comet Chem – volume: 43 start-page: 31 year: 2000 end-page: 32 article-title: Study of cuticle patterns of head hairs by scanning electron microscopy publication-title: Sud Med Ekspert – volume: 27 start-page: 123 year: 2000 end-page: 138 article-title: A critical review of the structural mechanics of wool and hair fibres publication-title: Int J Biol Macromol – volume: 44 start-page: 136 year: 1974 end-page: 140 article-title: Observation of the internal structure of the human hair cuticle cell by SEM publication-title: Text Res J – volume: 54 start-page: 335 year: 2003 end-page: 351 article-title: Optical properties of hair: effect of treatments on luster as quantified by image analysis publication-title: J Cosmet Sci – start-page: 149 year: 1997 end-page: 175 – volume: 60 start-page: 637 year: 2009 end-page: 648 article-title: Changes in structure and geometric properties of human hair by aging publication-title: J Cosmet Sci – volume: 23 start-page: 455 year: 2011 end-page: 462 article-title: Hair shaft damage from heat and drying time of hair dryer publication-title: Ann Dermatol – volume: 13 start-page: 143 year: 1991 end-page: 159 article-title: Fine details on the surface of human hair publication-title: Int J Cosmet Sci – volume: 59 start-page: 151 year: 2008 end-page: 156 article-title: Comparison of hair shaft damage after UVA and UVB irradiation publication-title: J Cosmet Sci – volume: 98 start-page: 29 year: 1983 ident: e_1_2_5_2_1 article-title: Weathering of hair publication-title: Cosmet Toil – ident: e_1_2_5_16_1 doi: 10.5021/ad.2011.23.4.455 – ident: e_1_2_5_5_1 doi: 10.1097/DAD.0b013e3181c38549 – volume: 54 start-page: 335 year: 2003 ident: e_1_2_5_10_1 article-title: Optical properties of hair: effect of treatments on luster as quantified by image analysis publication-title: J Cosmet Sci – volume: 51 start-page: 103 year: 2000 ident: e_1_2_5_15_1 article-title: Photodegradation of human hair: an SEM study publication-title: J Cosmet Sci – volume: 43 start-page: 31 year: 2000 ident: e_1_2_5_20_1 article-title: Study of cuticle patterns of head hairs by scanning electron microscopy publication-title: Sud Med Ekspert – volume: 26 start-page: 289 year: 1975 ident: e_1_2_5_22_1 article-title: Hair breakage: the scanning electron microscope as a diagnostic tool publication-title: J Soc Comet Chem – volume: 49 start-page: 309 year: 1998 ident: e_1_2_5_7_1 article-title: Hair photodamage: measurement and prevention publication-title: J Soc Cosmet Chem – volume: 60 start-page: 637 year: 2009 ident: e_1_2_5_11_1 article-title: Changes in structure and geometric properties of human hair by aging publication-title: J Cosmet Sci – ident: e_1_2_5_21_1 doi: 10.1046/j.1365-2818.2003.01220.x – volume: 59 start-page: 151 year: 2008 ident: e_1_2_5_17_1 article-title: Comparison of hair shaft damage after UVA and UVB irradiation publication-title: J Cosmet Sci – ident: e_1_2_5_4_1 doi: 10.1016/S0141-8130(00)00116-1 – ident: e_1_2_5_19_1 doi: 10.1177/004051757404400208 – ident: e_1_2_5_18_1 doi: 10.1007/978-3-0348-9223-0_4 – ident: e_1_2_5_9_1 doi: 10.1111/j.1467-2494.1991.tb00558.x – volume: 55 start-page: 95 year: 2004 ident: e_1_2_5_8_1 article-title: Review of the current understanding of the effect of ultraviolet and visible radiation on hair structure and options for photoprotection publication-title: J Cosmet Sci – ident: e_1_2_5_14_1 doi: 10.5021/ad.2013.25.1.54 – ident: e_1_2_5_3_1 doi: 10.1111/j.1467-2494.2005.00261.x – volume: 49 start-page: 141 year: 1998 ident: e_1_2_5_6_1 article-title: The cracking of human hair cuticles by cyclical thermal stresses publication-title: J Cosmet Sci – volume: 27 start-page: 379 year: 1976 ident: e_1_2_5_12_1 article-title: Combability measurements on human hair publication-title: J Soc Cosmet Chem – ident: e_1_2_5_13_1 doi: 10.1111/ijd.12247 |
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To assess the hair surface condition, scanning electron microscope (SEM) is commonly used and it remains an indispensable hair morphology... To assess the hair surface condition, scanning electron microscope (SEM) is commonly used and it remains an indispensable hair morphology characterization... Background To assess the hair surface condition, scanning electron microscope (SEM) is commonly used and it remains an indispensable hair morphology... |
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SubjectTerms | Academic grading Adult damaged hair surface Diagnosis, Differential Female Hair - drug effects Hair - pathology Hair - ultrastructure Hair Diseases - chemically induced Hair Diseases - pathology hair grading system Hair Preparations - adverse effects Humans Image Enhancement - methods Image Interpretation, Computer-Assisted - methods Microscopy, Electron, Scanning - methods Middle Aged Reproducibility of Results scanning electron microscopic examination Sensitivity and Specificity Severity of Illness Index Young Adult |
Title | Twelve-point scale grading system of scanning electron microscopic examination to investigate subtle changes in damaged hair surface |
URI | https://api.istex.fr/ark:/67375/WNG-8L956N6D-K/fulltext.pdf https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111%2Fsrt.12279 https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26792196 https://www.proquest.com/docview/1826400305 https://www.proquest.com/docview/1837304719 |
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