Study of sunless tanning formulas using molted snake skin as an alternative membrane model

Synopsis Sunless tanning formulas have become increasingly popular in recent years for their ability to give people convincing tans without the dangers of skin cancer. Most sunless tanners currently on the market contain dihydroxyacetone (DHA), a keto sugar with three carbons. The temporary pigment...

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Published inInternational journal of cosmetic science Vol. 33; no. 4; pp. 359 - 365
Main Authors Balogh, T. S., Pedriali, C. A., Gama, R. M., de Oliveira Pinto, C. A. S., Bedin, V., Villa, R. T., Kaneko, T. M., Consiglieri, V. O., Velasco, M. V. R., Baby, A. R.
Format Journal Article
LanguageEnglish
Published Oxford, UK Blackwell Publishing Ltd 01.08.2011
Wiley
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Abstract Synopsis Sunless tanning formulas have become increasingly popular in recent years for their ability to give people convincing tans without the dangers of skin cancer. Most sunless tanners currently on the market contain dihydroxyacetone (DHA), a keto sugar with three carbons. The temporary pigment provided by these formulasis designed to resemble a UV‐induced tan. This study evaluated the effectiveness of carbomer gels and cold process self emulsifying bases on skin pigmentation, using different concentrations of a chemical system composed of DHA and N‐acetyl tyrosine, which are found in moulted snake skins and their effectiveness was tested by Mexameter® MX 18. Eight different sunless tanning formulas were developed, four of which were gels and four of which were emulsions (base, base plus 4.0%, 5.0% and 6.0% (w/w) of a system of DHA and N‐acetyl tyrosine). Tests to determine the extent of artificial tanning were done by applying 30 mg cm−2 of each formula onto standard sizes of moulted snake skin (2.0 cm × 3.0 cm). A Mexameter® MX 18 was used to evaluate the extent of coloration in the moulted snake skin at T0 (before the application) and after 24, 48, 72, 168, 192 and 216 h. The moulted snake skins can be used as an alternative membrane model for in vitro sunless tanning efficacy tests due to their similarity to the human stratum corneum. The DHA concentration was found to influence the initiation of the pigmentation in both sunless tanning systems (emulsion and gel) as well as the time required to increases by a given amount on the tanning index. In the emulsion system, the DHA concentration also influenced the final value on the tanning index. The type of system (emulsion or gel) has no influence on the final value in the tanning index after 216 h for samples with the same DHA concentration. Résumé Des formules de produits autobronzant sont devenues ces dernières années de plus en plus populaires par leur capacitéà permettre de donner aux personnes un bronzage certain sans les risques d’un cancer cutané. La plupart des autobronzants actuellement sur le marché contiennent de la dihydroxyacetone (DHA), un sucre cétonique avec trois carbones. La pigmentation provisoire obtenue avec ces formules est conçue pour ressembler à un bronzage UV‐induit. Cette étude a évalué par mesure au Mexameter®MX 18, l’efficacité de gels de carbomer et de bases émulsionnées à froid s sur la pigmentation cutanée, en utilisant différentes concentrations d’un système composé de DHA et N‐acetyl tyrosine, trouvé dans des mues de serpent. Huit formules d’autobronzant ont été développées, quatre gels et quatre émulsions (la base, la base plus 4.0%, 5.0% et 6.0% (w/w) d’un système de DHA et N‐acetyl tyrosine). La mesure du bronzage artificiel obtenu a été faite en appliquant 30 mg cm−² de chaque formule sur des échantillons standards de mue de serpent (2.0 × 3.0 cm). Le Mexameter®MX 18 a été permis la mesure de coloration des mues de serpent à T0 (avant application) et après 24, 48, 72, 168, 192 et 216 h. Du fait de leur similitude avec le stratum corneum humain, les mues de serpent peuvent être utilisées comme un modèle alternatif de membrane pour l’efficacitéin vitro des autobronzants. La concentration en DHA influence le début de la pigmentation dans les deux systèmes d’autobronzant (émulsion et gel) ainsi que le temps nécessaire à l’augmentation de l’indice de bronzage. Dans le système émulsion, la concentration DHA est liée à la valeur finale de l’indice de bronzage. Le type de système (émulsion ou gel) n’a aucune influence sur la valeur finale de bronzage après 216 h pour des échantillons de même concentration en DHA.
AbstractList Sunless tanning formulas have become increasingly popular in recent years for their ability to give people convincing tans without the dangers of skin cancer. Most sunless tanners currently on the market contain dihydroxyacetone (DHA), a keto sugar with three carbons. The temporary pigment provided by these formulasis designed to resemble a UV-induced tan. This study evaluated the effectiveness of carbomer gels and cold process self emulsifying bases on skin pigmentation, using different concentrations of a chemical system composed of DHA and N-acetyl tyrosine, which are found in moulted snake skins and their effectiveness was tested by Mexameter registered MX 18. Eight different sunless tanning formulas were developed, four of which were gels and four of which were emulsions (base, base plus 4.0%, 5.0% and 6.0% (w/w) of a system of DHA and N-acetyl tyrosine). Tests to determine the extent of artificial tanning were done by applying 30mgcm-2 of each formula onto standard sizes of moulted snake skin (2.0cm3.0cm). A Mexameter registered MX 18 was used to evaluate the extent of coloration in the moulted snake skin at T0 (before the application) and after 24, 48, 72, 168, 192 and 216h. The moulted snake skins can be used as an alternative membrane model for in vitro sunless tanning efficacy tests due to their similarity to the human stratum corneum. The DHA concentration was found to influence the initiation of the pigmentation in both sunless tanning systems (emulsion and gel) as well as the time required to increases by a given amount on the tanning index. In the emulsion system, the DHA concentration also influenced the final value on the tanning index. The type of system (emulsion or gel) has no influence on the final value in the tanning index after 216h for samples with the same DHA concentration.Original Abstract: Des formules de produits autobronzant sont devenues ces dernieres annees de plus en plus populaires par leur capacitea permettre de donner aux personnes un bronzage certain sans les risques d'un cancer cutane. La plupart des autobronzants actuellement sur le marche contiennent de la dihydroxyacetone (DHA), un sucre cetonique avec trois carbones. La pigmentation provisoire obtenue avec ces formules est concue pour ressembler a un bronzage UV-induit. Cette etude a evalue par mesure au Mexameter registered MX 18, l'efficacite de gels de carbomer et de bases emulsionnees a froid s sur la pigmentation cutanee, en utilisant differentes concentrations d'un systeme compose de DHA et N-acetyl tyrosine, trouve dans des mues de serpent. Huit formules d'autobronzant ont ete developpees, quatre gels et quatre emulsions (la base, la base plus 4.0%, 5.0% et 6.0% (w/w) d'un systeme de DHA et N-acetyl tyrosine). La mesure du bronzage artificiel obtenu a ete faite en appliquant 30mgcm- super(2) de chaque formule sur des echantillons standards de mue de serpent (2.03.0cm). Le Mexameter registered MX 18 a ete permis la mesure de coloration des mues de serpent a T0 (avant application) et apres 24, 48, 72, 168, 192 et 216h. Du fait de leur similitude avec le stratum corneum humain, les mues de serpent peuvent etre utilisees comme un modele alternatif de membrane pour l'efficacitein vitro des autobronzants. La concentration en DHA influence le debut de la pigmentation dans les deux systemes d'autobronzant (emulsion et gel) ainsi que le temps necessaire a l'augmentation de l'indice de bronzage. Dans le systeme emulsion, la concentration DHA est liee a la valeur finale de l'indice de bronzage. Le type de systeme (emulsion ou gel) n'a aucune influence sur la valeur finale de bronzage apres 216h pour des echantillons de meme concentration en DHA.
Sunless tanning formulas have become increasingly popular in recent years for their ability to give people convincing tans without the dangers of skin cancer. Most sunless tanners currently on the market contain dihydroxyacetone (DHA), a keto sugar with three carbons. The temporary pigment provided by these formulas is designed to resemble a UV-induced tan. This study evaluated the effectiveness of carbomer gels and cold process self emulsifying bases on skin pigmentation, using different concentrations of a chemical system composed of DHA and N-acetyl tyrosine, which are found in moulted snake skins and their effectiveness was tested by Mexameter(®) MX 18. Eight different sunless tanning formulas were developed, four of which were gels and four of which were emulsions (base, base plus 4.0%, 5.0% and 6.0% (w/w) of a system of DHA and N-acetyl tyrosine). Tests to determine the extent of artificial tanning were done by applying 30 mg cm(-2) of each formula onto standard sizes of moulted snake skin (2.0 cm × 3.0 cm). A Mexameter(®) MX 18 was used to evaluate the extent of coloration in the moulted snake skin at T(0) (before the application) and after 24, 48, 72, 168, 192 and 216 h. The moulted snake skins can be used as an alternative membrane model for in vitro sunless tanning efficacy tests due to their similarity to the human stratum corneum. The DHA concentration was found to influence the initiation of the pigmentation in both sunless tanning systems (emulsion and gel) as well as the time required to increases by a given amount on the tanning index. In the emulsion system, the DHA concentration also influenced the final value on the tanning index. The type of system (emulsion or gel) has no influence on the final value in the tanning index after 216 h for samples with the same DHA concentration.
Synopsis Sunless tanning formulas have become increasingly popular in recent years for their ability to give people convincing tans without the dangers of skin cancer. Most sunless tanners currently on the market contain dihydroxyacetone (DHA), a keto sugar with three carbons. The temporary pigment provided by these formulasis designed to resemble a UV‐induced tan. This study evaluated the effectiveness of carbomer gels and cold process self emulsifying bases on skin pigmentation, using different concentrations of a chemical system composed of DHA and N‐acetyl tyrosine, which are found in moulted snake skins and their effectiveness was tested by Mexameter ® MX 18. Eight different sunless tanning formulas were developed, four of which were gels and four of which were emulsions (base, base plus 4.0%, 5.0% and 6.0% (w/w) of a system of DHA and N‐acetyl tyrosine). Tests to determine the extent of artificial tanning were done by applying 30 mg cm −2 of each formula onto standard sizes of moulted snake skin (2.0 cm × 3.0 cm). A Mexameter ® MX 18 was used to evaluate the extent of coloration in the moulted snake skin at T 0 (before the application) and after 24, 48, 72, 168, 192 and 216 h. The moulted snake skins can be used as an alternative membrane model for in vitro sunless tanning efficacy tests due to their similarity to the human stratum corneum . The DHA concentration was found to influence the initiation of the pigmentation in both sunless tanning systems (emulsion and gel) as well as the time required to increases by a given amount on the tanning index. In the emulsion system, the DHA concentration also influenced the final value on the tanning index. The type of system (emulsion or gel) has no influence on the final value in the tanning index after 216 h for samples with the same DHA concentration. Résumé Des formules de produits autobronzant sont devenues ces dernières années de plus en plus populaires par leur capacitéà permettre de donner aux personnes un bronzage certain sans les risques d’un cancer cutané. La plupart des autobronzants actuellement sur le marché contiennent de la dihydroxyacetone (DHA), un sucre cétonique avec trois carbones. La pigmentation provisoire obtenue avec ces formules est conçue pour ressembler à un bronzage UV‐induit. Cette étude a évalué par mesure au Mexameter ® MX 18, l’efficacité de gels de carbomer et de bases émulsionnées à froid s sur la pigmentation cutanée, en utilisant différentes concentrations d’un système composé de DHA et N‐acetyl tyrosine, trouvé dans des mues de serpent. Huit formules d’autobronzant ont été développées, quatre gels et quatre émulsions (la base, la base plus 4.0%, 5.0% et 6.0% (w/w) d’un système de DHA et N‐acetyl tyrosine). La mesure du bronzage artificiel obtenu a été faite en appliquant 30 mg cm − ² de chaque formule sur des échantillons standards de mue de serpent (2.0 × 3.0 cm). Le Mexameter ® MX 18 a été permis la mesure de coloration des mues de serpent à T0 (avant application) et après 24, 48, 72, 168, 192 et 216 h. Du fait de leur similitude avec le stratum corneum humain, les mues de serpent peuvent être utilisées comme un modèle alternatif de membrane pour l’efficacité in vitro des autobronzants. La concentration en DHA influence le début de la pigmentation dans les deux systèmes d’autobronzant (émulsion et gel) ainsi que le temps nécessaire à l’augmentation de l’indice de bronzage. Dans le système émulsion, la concentration DHA est liée à la valeur finale de l’indice de bronzage. Le type de système (émulsion ou gel) n’a aucune influence sur la valeur finale de bronzage après 216 h pour des échantillons de même concentration en DHA.
Synopsis Sunless tanning formulas have become increasingly popular in recent years for their ability to give people convincing tans without the dangers of skin cancer. Most sunless tanners currently on the market contain dihydroxyacetone (DHA), a keto sugar with three carbons. The temporary pigment provided by these formulasis designed to resemble a UV‐induced tan. This study evaluated the effectiveness of carbomer gels and cold process self emulsifying bases on skin pigmentation, using different concentrations of a chemical system composed of DHA and N‐acetyl tyrosine, which are found in moulted snake skins and their effectiveness was tested by Mexameter® MX 18. Eight different sunless tanning formulas were developed, four of which were gels and four of which were emulsions (base, base plus 4.0%, 5.0% and 6.0% (w/w) of a system of DHA and N‐acetyl tyrosine). Tests to determine the extent of artificial tanning were done by applying 30 mg cm−2 of each formula onto standard sizes of moulted snake skin (2.0 cm × 3.0 cm). A Mexameter® MX 18 was used to evaluate the extent of coloration in the moulted snake skin at T0 (before the application) and after 24, 48, 72, 168, 192 and 216 h. The moulted snake skins can be used as an alternative membrane model for in vitro sunless tanning efficacy tests due to their similarity to the human stratum corneum. The DHA concentration was found to influence the initiation of the pigmentation in both sunless tanning systems (emulsion and gel) as well as the time required to increases by a given amount on the tanning index. In the emulsion system, the DHA concentration also influenced the final value on the tanning index. The type of system (emulsion or gel) has no influence on the final value in the tanning index after 216 h for samples with the same DHA concentration. Résumé Des formules de produits autobronzant sont devenues ces dernières années de plus en plus populaires par leur capacitéà permettre de donner aux personnes un bronzage certain sans les risques d’un cancer cutané. La plupart des autobronzants actuellement sur le marché contiennent de la dihydroxyacetone (DHA), un sucre cétonique avec trois carbones. La pigmentation provisoire obtenue avec ces formules est conçue pour ressembler à un bronzage UV‐induit. Cette étude a évalué par mesure au Mexameter®MX 18, l’efficacité de gels de carbomer et de bases émulsionnées à froid s sur la pigmentation cutanée, en utilisant différentes concentrations d’un système composé de DHA et N‐acetyl tyrosine, trouvé dans des mues de serpent. Huit formules d’autobronzant ont été développées, quatre gels et quatre émulsions (la base, la base plus 4.0%, 5.0% et 6.0% (w/w) d’un système de DHA et N‐acetyl tyrosine). La mesure du bronzage artificiel obtenu a été faite en appliquant 30 mg cm−² de chaque formule sur des échantillons standards de mue de serpent (2.0 × 3.0 cm). Le Mexameter®MX 18 a été permis la mesure de coloration des mues de serpent à T0 (avant application) et après 24, 48, 72, 168, 192 et 216 h. Du fait de leur similitude avec le stratum corneum humain, les mues de serpent peuvent être utilisées comme un modèle alternatif de membrane pour l’efficacitéin vitro des autobronzants. La concentration en DHA influence le début de la pigmentation dans les deux systèmes d’autobronzant (émulsion et gel) ainsi que le temps nécessaire à l’augmentation de l’indice de bronzage. Dans le système émulsion, la concentration DHA est liée à la valeur finale de l’indice de bronzage. Le type de système (émulsion ou gel) n’a aucune influence sur la valeur finale de bronzage après 216 h pour des échantillons de même concentration en DHA.
Author Villa, R. T.
Kaneko, T. M.
Baby, A. R.
de Oliveira Pinto, C. A. S.
Velasco, M. V. R.
Balogh, T. S.
Bedin, V.
Pedriali, C. A.
Consiglieri, V. O.
Gama, R. M.
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CitedBy_id crossref_primary_10_1002_jsde_12733
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ContentType Journal Article
Copyright 2011 The Authors. ICS © 2011 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie
2015 INIST-CNRS
2011 The Authors. ICS © 2011 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie.
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– notice: 2011 The Authors. ICS © 2011 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie.
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Issue 4
Keywords Cosmetic
Performance evaluation
dihydroxyacetone
Mexameter
Ketol
Animal origin
Suntan product
Molt
Ophidia
Reflection spectrometry
Vertebrata
Self tanning
moulted snake skin
Efficiency
Test method
Pigments
Alternative method
MX 18
Reptilia
Skin
Melanin
artificial tanning
Language English
License CC BY 4.0
2011 The Authors. ICS © 2011 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie.
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PublicationDate August 2011
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PublicationTitle International journal of cosmetic science
PublicationTitleAlternate Int J Cosmet Sci
PublicationYear 2011
Publisher Blackwell Publishing Ltd
Wiley
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Baron, E.D., Kirkland, E.B. and Domingo, D.S. Advances in photoprotection. Dermatol. Nurs. 20, 265-72 (2008).
Romero, C. and Del Pozo, A. Aplicabilidad del dispositivo Mexameter MX 16 a la evaluación de la actividad de preparados autobronceadores. Cosmetología OFFARM, 120-128 (2001).
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Nguyen, B.C. and Kochevar, I.E. Influence of hydration on dihydroxyacetone-induced pigmentation of stratum corneum. J. Invest. Dermatol. 120, 655-661 (2003).
Priprem, A., Khamlert, C., Pongjanyakul, T., Radapong, S., Rittirod, T. and Chitropas, P. Comparative permeation studies between scale region of shed snake skin and human skin in vitro. Am. J. Agric. Biol. Sci. 3, 444-450 (2008).
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Clarys, P., Alewaeters, K., Lambrecht, R. and Barel, A.O. Skin color measurements: comparison between three instruments: the Chromameter®, the DermaSpectrometer® and the Mexameter®. Skin Res. Technol. 6, 230-238 (2000).
Faurschou, A., Janjua, N.R. and Wulf, H.C. Sun protection effect of dihydroxyacetone. Arch. Dermatol. 140, 886-887 (2004).
Nguyen, B.C. and Kochevar, I.E. Factors influencing sunless tanning with dihydroxyacetone. Br. J. Dermatol. 149, 332-340 (2003).
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Petersen, A.B., Na, R. and Wulf, H.C. Sunless skin tanning with dihydroxyacetone delays broad-spectrum ultraviolet photocarcinogenesis in hairless mice. Mutat. Res. 542, 129-138 (2003).
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Snippet Synopsis Sunless tanning formulas have become increasingly popular in recent years for their ability to give people convincing tans without the dangers of skin...
Sunless tanning formulas have become increasingly popular in recent years for their ability to give people convincing tans without the dangers of skin cancer....
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SubjectTerms Animal models
Animals
Applied sciences
artificial tanning
Carbon
Chemical industry and chemicals
Coloration
Cosmetics
Cosmetics, toiletries
Dihydroxyacetone
Exact sciences and technology
Gels
melanin
Membranes, Artificial
Mexameter® MX 18
Models, Theoretical
moulted snake skin
Pigmentation
Pigments
Self
Skin cancer
Snakes
Stratum corneum
Sugar
Sunbathing
Tanning
Tyrosine
U.V. radiation
Washing products. Cosmetics and toiletries. Perfumes
Title Study of sunless tanning formulas using molted snake skin as an alternative membrane model
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