In vitro safety and efficacy evaluations of a complex botanical mixture of Eugenia dysenterica DC. (Myrtaceae): Prospects for developing a new dermocosmetic product

• Published in: Toxicology in vitro Vol. 45; no. Pt 3; pp. 397 - 408
• Main Authors: Moreira, Larissa Cleres, de Ávila, Renato Ivan, Veloso, Danillo Fabrini Maciel Costa, Pedrosa, Tatiana Nascimento, Lima, Emerson Silva, do Couto, Renê Oliveira, Lima, Eliana Martins, Batista, Aline Carvalho, de Paula, José Realino, Valadares, Marize Campos
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: England Elsevier Ltd 01.12.2017; Elsevier Science Ltd
• Subjects: Aging; Alternative methods; Animals; Anti-aging; Cattle; Cells, Cultured; Chromatography; Collagen; Collagenase; Complex botanical mixture; Complex Mixtures; Consumer Product Safety; Cornea; Cornea - drug effects; Cosmetic; Cosmetics; Cosmetics - chemistry; Cosmetics - toxicity; Cytokinesis; Dendritic cells; Dendritic Cells - drug effects; Dermatitis, Phototoxic; Dermatologic Agents - chemistry; Dermatologic Agents - toxicity; Elastase; Ellagic acid; Eugenia - chemistry; Eugenia - toxicity; Fibroblasts; Flavonoids; Gallic acid; Genotoxicity; Humans; Interleukin-18 - metabolism; Irritants - toxicity; Keratinocytes - drug effects; Mice; Micronucleus Tests; Natural products; Opacity; Permeability; Phototoxicity; Plant Extracts - chemistry; Plant Extracts - toxicity; Plant Leaves - chemistry; Product safety; Proteins; Quercetin; Regeneration; Risk evaluation; Risk factors; Skin; Skin-whitening; Tyrosinase; Ultraviolet radiation; Cosmetic; MPE; CBPI; EDE; mDPRA; MNvit test-cytoB; SPF; DNCB; ITS; Skin-whitening; NRU; Risk evaluation; OD; SI; IC50; l-DOPA; AAAPVN; OMC; Anti-aging; Alternative methods; MUSST; PIF; UN GHS; CV80; IVIS; PI; Complex botanical mixture; BCOP
• DOI: 10.1016/j.tiv.2017.04.002
• ISSN: 0887-2333

In the context of developing a new natural product-based cosmetic, the in vitro efficacy and safety evaluations of a complex botanical mixture based on Eugenia dysenterica leaf hydroalcoholic extract (EDE) (2.5–1000μg/mL) were carried out. Chromatographic analysis demonstrated the presence of the tannin (ellagic acid) and flavonoids (quercetin and gallic acid) which characterize the EDE as a polyphenol-rich mixture. Using HFF-1 fibroblasts, it was shown that EDE promoted cell regeneration after UVA exposure. It also led to the inhibition of the collagenase, elastase and tyrosinase enzymes, which are involved in skin-related disorders. In terms of toxicological evaluation, the EDE was classified as non-phototoxic through the 3T3 Neutral Red Uptake Phototoxicity Test (OECD N° 432, 2004) and non-eye irritant by Bovine Corneal Opacity and Permeability (OECD N° 437, 2013) assay, in conjunction with corneal histomorphometric analysis. Furthermore, the EDE has no skin sensitization potential as demonstrated by a two-out-of-three prediction model [protein-binding/haptenization (OECD N° 442C, 2015), keratinocyte and dendritic cell activations]. In addition, it was shown that the EDE seems to be non-genotoxic through the cytokinesis-block micronucleus assay (OECD N° 487, 2014) using HepG2 cells. When considered together, these findings support the use of EDE botanical mixture in cosmetic/pharmaceutical products. •EDE is a polyphenol-rich complex botanical mixture containing ellagic acid, quercetin and gallic acid.•EDE exerts cell regeneration of HFF-1 fibroblasts after UVA exposure.•EDE has potential skin-whitening and anti-aging properties.•EDE seems to be well-tolerated topically, without any relevant toxic effects.