A Comparative Study on the Performance of Different Exhaustive Agents Used in Modern Dyeing vis-à-vis Primitive Dyeing of Silk Thread

• Published in: Journal of natural fibers Vol. 19; no. 13; pp. 6595 - 6601
• Main Authors: Katpadi Mohammed, Abdul Kadhar, Naik, Subhas V.
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: Abingdon Taylor & Francis 01.12.2022; Taylor & Francis Ltd; Taylor & Francis Group
• Subjects: acid dye; Color; Color fastness; Comparative studies; Dyeing; Dyes; Elongation; exhaustive agent; fastness properties; Silk; Silk handloom dyeing; Sodium chloride; Sodium sulfate; Statistical analysis; un-levelness index; 不平度指数; 丝绸手织染色; 牢度性能; 穷尽剂; 酸性染料
• DOI: 10.1080/15440478.2021.1929648
• ISSN: 1544-0478

Arni, one of the major silk handloom weaving clusters of India, adopted a very primitive way of dyeing using open pan/vessels with direct heating that is invariably carried out without using any exhaustive agent as recommended in scientific way of dyeing the silk yarn. In order to educate the dyers about the quality characteristics of the dyed yarn material, dyeing trials of fully degummed tram silk were taken by using crimson, acid class of dye (CI 262085) with three exhaustive agents, viz., Glauber's salt (sodium sulfate), sodium chloride, and unilevelon, a chemical preferred by certain dyer, and compared with the existing primitive way of dyeing method. The statistical analysis of the quality characteristics revealed that the color fastness to wash and rub, tenacity and elongation, and unlevelness index have significantly improved while the color fastness to light and color absorption in terms of CIE L*a*b* values have not shown any significant difference. The unilevelon has performed significantly better in terms of unlevelness index when compared to other/exhaustive agents.