The cultural role of diplomats in an age of war: French fashion in Vienna under Leopold I
The annual fashion cycle of Louis XIV's court was the starting point of the French domination and economic supremacy in Europe's textile and fashion sector. This paper examines the specific circumstances under which French fashion captured the Viennese elite market despite the dynastical a...
Saved in:
Published in | The Seventeenth century Vol. 36; no. 3; pp. 485 - 507 |
---|---|
Main Author | |
Format | Journal Article |
Language | English |
Published |
Durham
Routledge
04.05.2021
Taylor & Francis Ltd |
Subjects | |
Online Access | Get full text |
Cover
Loading…
Abstract | The annual fashion cycle of Louis XIV's court was the starting point of the French domination and economic supremacy in Europe's textile and fashion sector. This paper examines the specific circumstances under which French fashion captured the Viennese elite market despite the dynastical and political antagonism between the houses Habsburg and Bourbon. It examines the networks of Habsburg diplomats that organized decisive transfers of fashion items. In contrast to dynastically linked courts or political allies such as Munich, London and Stockholm, the Viennese example highlights the planned activities of French diplomats in Vienna as cultural brokers, several diplomatic and practical barriers notwithstanding. It likewise reveals the informal strategies of the French envoy's wives, household staff and valets in distributing textiles and fashion within the imperial family and the court nobility. It offers an intriguing example of how cultural diplomacy created ways to communicate with the enemy, when the official diplomatic channels were closed off. |
---|---|
AbstractList | The annual fashion cycle of Louis XIV's court was the starting point of the French domination and economic supremacy in Europe's textile and fashion sector. This paper examines the specific circumstances under which French fashion captured the Viennese elite market despite the dynastical and political antagonism between the houses Habsburg and Bourbon. It examines the networks of Habsburg diplomats that organized decisive transfers of fashion items. In contrast to dynastically linked courts or political allies such as Munich, London and Stockholm, the Viennese example highlights the planned activities of French diplomats in Vienna as cultural brokers, several diplomatic and practical barriers notwithstanding. It likewise reveals the informal strategies of the French envoy's wives, household staff and valets in distributing textiles and fashion within the imperial family and the court nobility. It offers an intriguing example of how cultural diplomacy created ways to communicate with the enemy, when the official diplomatic channels were closed off. |
Author | Hyden-Hanscho, Veronika |
Author_xml | – sequence: 1 givenname: Veronika surname: Hyden-Hanscho fullname: Hyden-Hanscho, Veronika email: Veronika.Hyden-Hanscho@oeaw.ac.at organization: Austrian Academy of Sciences |
BookMark | eNp9kFFLwzAQx4NMcE4_ghDwuTNJmy7xSRlOBwNfpuhTSJuL6-iSmrSMfXtbN1_lDg6O3_8Ofpdo5LwDhG4omVIiyB1huaB09jFlhNEplSyTkp6hMSOcJFlO8xEaD0wyQBfoMsYtIYTnnIzR53oDuOzqtgu6xsHXgL3Fpmpqv9NtxJXDuu-v3_Veh3u8CODKDbY6birvBuC9Auc07pyBgFfgG18bvLxC51bXEa5Pc4LeFk_r-Uuyen1ezh9XSclE3iayoCCYMUbmHGwJRGaaycJqEOmMQ55BQU1BIC_SklHLAGacGw6GUiMEKdMJuj3ebYL_7iC2auu74PqXivFM9JVK0VP8SJXBxxjAqiZUOx0OihI1WFR_FtVgUZ0s9rmHY65y1oed3vtQG9XqQ-2DDdqVVVTp_yd-AGcDewY |
Cites_doi | 10.1093/acprof:oso/9780198227458.001.0001 10.9783/9780812293869-001 10.7767/9783205201076 10.7788/boehlau.9783412212698.intro 10.1080/13688804.2016.1174570 10.5040/9781474258265.ch-012 10.5040/9781474285919 10.26530/OAPEN_477710 10.13109/9783666301940 10.7767/boehlau.9783205790082 10.5040/9781474258265.ch-011 10.3406/bec.2012.464182 10.25162/9783515105330 10.1093/pastj/gtp044 10.1179/0361211214Z.00000000028 10.2307/j.ctt9qd42q.6 10.1080/10632920903449019 |
ContentType | Journal Article |
Copyright | 2021 The Seventeenth Century 2021 2021 The Seventeenth Century |
Copyright_xml | – notice: 2021 The Seventeenth Century 2021 – notice: 2021 The Seventeenth Century |
DBID | AAYXX CITATION |
DOI | 10.1080/0268117X.2021.1924991 |
DatabaseName | CrossRef |
DatabaseTitle | CrossRef |
DatabaseTitleList | |
DeliveryMethod | fulltext_linktorsrc |
Discipline | Languages & Literatures History & Archaeology |
EISSN | 2050-4616 |
EndPage | 507 |
ExternalDocumentID | 10_1080_0268117X_2021_1924991 1924991 |
Genre | Articles |
GeographicLocations | France Austria Vienna Austria |
GeographicLocations_xml | – name: Vienna Austria – name: Austria – name: France |
GroupedDBID | -DZ .QK 0BK 0R~ 123 4.4 AAAVI AACJB AAMFJ AAMIU AAPUL AAZMC ABBKH ABCCR ABCCY ABFIM ABJVF ABLIJ ABLJU ABPEM ABPTK ABPTX ABQHQ ABSSG ABTAI ABXUL ACGFS ACLSK ACTIO ACTOA ADAHI ADCVX AECIN AEGYZ AEISY AEKEX AEMXT AETEA AEYOC AEZRU AFOLD AFWLO AGDLA AGMYJ AGRBW AIJEM AKBVH ALMA_UNASSIGNED_HOLDINGS ALQZU AVBZW BEJHT BLEHA BMOTO BOHLJ CCCUG CLO DGFLZ DKSSO EAP EBS EHI ESX E~B E~C F5P FUNRP G-F GTTXZ HF~ HQDSM HZ~ IPNFZ KDLKA KYCEM LJTGL M4Z MLAFT NV0 O9- P2P QE9 QN7 RIG RNANH ROSJB RSYQP S-F STATR TEA TFH TFL TFW TN5 TNTFI TRJHH UT5 V1K WU5 ~01 ~45 ~S~ AAYXX ABJNI ABXYU ACWXD ADKVQ ADMHG AHDZW AWYRJ CITATION H13 TBQAZ TDBHL TUROJ |
ID | FETCH-LOGICAL-c286t-9b1e82ddd965efce094a29bfae8375e64eb1db0e6b3c21f2ee755d5ed11d880c3 |
ISSN | 0268-117X |
IngestDate | Wed Dec 18 01:04:45 EST 2024 Fri Dec 06 08:23:22 EST 2024 Tue Jul 04 18:16:49 EDT 2023 |
IsPeerReviewed | true |
IsScholarly | true |
Issue | 3 |
Language | English |
LinkModel | OpenURL |
MergedId | FETCHMERGED-LOGICAL-c286t-9b1e82ddd965efce094a29bfae8375e64eb1db0e6b3c21f2ee755d5ed11d880c3 |
PQID | 2548484398 |
PQPubID | 44912 |
PageCount | 23 |
ParticipantIDs | informaworld_taylorfrancis_310_1080_0268117X_2021_1924991 proquest_journals_2548484398 crossref_primary_10_1080_0268117X_2021_1924991 |
PublicationCentury | 2000 |
PublicationDate | 2021-05-04 |
PublicationDateYYYYMMDD | 2021-05-04 |
PublicationDate_xml | – month: 05 year: 2021 text: 2021-05-04 day: 04 |
PublicationDecade | 2020 |
PublicationPlace | Durham |
PublicationPlace_xml | – name: Durham |
PublicationTitle | The Seventeenth century |
PublicationYear | 2021 |
Publisher | Routledge Taylor & Francis Ltd |
Publisher_xml | – sequence: 0 name: Taylor & Francis Ltd – name: Routledge |
References | cit0033 cit0034 Saint-Allais M. de. (cit0051) 1874; 6 Küchelbecker J. B. (cit0003) 1732 cit0030 Hyden-Hanscho V. (cit0029) 2018 Biedermann Z. (cit0012) 2018 Lewin A. (cit0036) 1995 Gienow-Hecht J. (cit0021) 2010 Auer L. (cit0008) 2009 Rohrschneider M. (cit0049) 2009; 36 cit0022 cit0020 Polleroß F. (cit0043) 2004 Thépaut-Cabasset C. (cit0056) 2013 cit0060 Ulbert J. (cit0059) 2008 Çelebi E. (cit0002) 1957 Mansel P. (cit0039) 2019 Vogüé (cit0007) 1884; 1 Hengerer M. (cit0027) 2019; 1 (cit0005) 1667 Sorel A. (cit0006) 1884 cit0026 El Hage F. (cit0019) 2012 cit0054 cit0052 Kauz R. (cit0032) 2009 Aubert de La Chenaye-Desbois (cit0001) 1771; 3 Pečar A. (cit0042) 2003 Hayward M. (cit0025) 2015 Bérenger J. (cit0011) 2011 Richefort I. (cit0047) 1998 Bittner L. (cit0013) 1936; 1 Braun G. (cit0016) 2008 Styles J. (cit0053) 2017 Young G. F. (cit0061) 1930 Pons R. (cit0045) 2005 cit0017 cit0018 Haug T. (cit0024) 2015 cit0057 cit0014 Malettke K. (cit0037) 2001 Hyden-Hanscho V. (cit0028) 2013 cit0040 Karl B. (cit0031) 2018 Bastl B. (cit0010) 2014; 1 Roche D. (cit0048) 1996 Mansel P. (cit0038) 2005 Ziegler H. (cit0062) 2008 Polleroß F. (cit0044) 2010 Thépaut-Cabasset C. (cit0055) 2010 cit0009 Lebeurier P.-F. (cit0035) 1866 Müller K. (cit0041) 1976 Bönsch A. (cit0015) 2011 Rudolph H. (cit0050) 2016; 17 Pribram A. F. (cit0004) 1903; 1 Thomasius C. (cit0058) 1970 Goloubeva M. (cit0023) 2000 cit0046 |
References_xml | – start-page: 33 volume-title: Diplomatisches Zeremoniell in Europa und im mittleren Osten in der Frühen Neuzeit year: 2009 ident: cit0008 contributor: fullname: Auer L. – volume: 1 start-page: 834 volume-title: Verwaltungsgeschichte der Habsburgermonarchie in der Frühen Neuzeit year: 2019 ident: cit0027 contributor: fullname: Hengerer M. – volume-title: Im Reiche des goldenen Apfels year: 1957 ident: cit0002 contributor: fullname: Çelebi E. – ident: cit0014 doi: 10.1093/acprof:oso/9780198227458.001.0001 – volume: 1 volume-title: Privatbriefe Kaiser Leopold I. an den Grafen F. E. Pötting 1662–1673 year: 1903 ident: cit0004 contributor: fullname: Pribram A. F. – ident: cit0060 doi: 10.9783/9780812293869-001 – start-page: 381 volume-title: Discourses of Anger in the Early Modern Period year: 2015 ident: cit0024 contributor: fullname: Haug T. – ident: cit0040 doi: 10.7767/9783205201076 – ident: cit0057 doi: 10.7788/boehlau.9783412212698.intro – ident: cit0054 – volume: 6 volume-title: Nobiliaire universel de France ou recueil général des généalogies historiques des maisons noble de ce royaume year: 1874 ident: cit0051 contributor: fullname: Saint-Allais M. de. – ident: cit0026 doi: 10.1080/13688804.2016.1174570 – volume: 36 start-page: 135 year: 2009 ident: cit0049 publication-title: Francia contributor: fullname: Rohrschneider M. – volume-title: Das kaiserliche Gesandtschaftswesen im Jahrhundert nach dem Westfälischen Frieden (1648–1740) year: 1976 ident: cit0041 contributor: fullname: Müller K. – volume-title: État des anoblis en Normandie de 1545 à 1661 avec un supplément de 1398 à 1687 year: 1866 ident: cit0035 contributor: fullname: Lebeurier P.-F. – start-page: 137 volume-title: Assecuratio pacis. Französische Konzeptionen von Friedenssicherung und Friedensgarantie 1648–1815 year: 2011 ident: cit0011 contributor: fullname: Bérenger J. – volume-title: The Glorification of Emperor Leopold I in Image, Spectacle and Text year: 2000 ident: cit0023 contributor: fullname: Goloubeva M. – volume: 1 volume-title: Mémoires du Maréchal de Villars year: 1884 ident: cit0007 contributor: fullname: Vogüé – volume-title: Deutsche Schriften year: 1970 ident: cit0058 contributor: fullname: Thomasius C. – start-page: 119 volume-title: Global Gifts: The Material Culture of Diplomacy in Early Modern Eurasia year: 2018 ident: cit0031 contributor: fullname: Karl B. – start-page: 57 volume-title: Louis XIV Outside In: Images of the Sun King beyond France, 1661–1715 year: 2015 ident: cit0025 contributor: fullname: Hayward M. – volume-title: Reiselust und Kunstgenuss. Barockes Böhmen, Mähren und Österreich year: 2004 ident: cit0043 contributor: fullname: Polleroß F. – ident: cit0030 doi: 10.5040/9781474258265.ch-012 – ident: cit0018 doi: 10.5040/9781474285919 – ident: cit0033 doi: 10.26530/OAPEN_477710 – volume-title: Dressed to Rule: Royal and Court Costume from Louis XIV to Elizabeth II year: 2005 ident: cit0038 contributor: fullname: Mansel P. – volume-title: Formengeschichte europäischer Kleidung year: 2011 ident: cit0015 contributor: fullname: Bönsch A. – volume: 17 start-page: 1 year: 2016 ident: cit0050 publication-title: European History Yearbook contributor: fullname: Rudolph H. – volume-title: Diplomatisches Zeremoniell in Europa und im Mittleren Osten in der Frühen Neuzeit year: 2009 ident: cit0032 contributor: fullname: Kauz R. – start-page: 263 volume-title: L’invention de la diplomatie. Moyen Age – Temps modernes year: 1998 ident: cit0047 contributor: fullname: Richefort I. – ident: cit0009 doi: 10.13109/9783666301940 – start-page: 243 volume-title: Une Europe des affaires (XVIe–XVIIIe siècles) year: 2018 ident: cit0029 contributor: fullname: Hyden-Hanscho V. – volume-title: Recueil des instructions données aux ambassadeurs et ministres de France depuis les traités de Westphalie jusqu’á la Révolution française. Autriche year: 1884 ident: cit0006 contributor: fullname: Sorel A. – ident: cit0034 doi: 10.7767/boehlau.9783205790082 – volume-title: L’Esprit des modes au Grand Siècle year: 2010 ident: cit0055 contributor: fullname: Thépaut-Cabasset C. – volume: 3 volume-title: Dictionnaire de la noblesse year: 1771 ident: cit0001 contributor: fullname: Aubert de La Chenaye-Desbois – ident: cit0020 doi: 10.5040/9781474258265.ch-011 – start-page: 155 volume-title: Ein zweigeteilter Ort? Hof und Stadt in der Frühen Neuzeit year: 2005 ident: cit0045 contributor: fullname: Pons R. – start-page: 166 volume-title: Bourbon–Habsburg–Oranien. Konkurrierende Modelle im dynastischen Europa um 1700 year: 2008 ident: cit0062 contributor: fullname: Ziegler H. – volume-title: The Medici year: 1930 ident: cit0061 contributor: fullname: Young G. F. – volume-title: Le Maréchal De Villars: L’infatigable Bonheur year: 2012 ident: cit0019 contributor: fullname: El Hage F. – volume: 1 start-page: 137 volume-title: In Spanish Fashion at the Court of Early Modern Europe year: 2014 ident: cit0010 contributor: fullname: Bastl B. – ident: cit0046 doi: 10.3406/bec.2012.464182 – volume-title: Reisende, Migranten, Kulturmanager. Mittlerpersönlichkeiten zwischen Frankreich und dem Wiener Hof, 1630–1730 year: 2013 ident: cit0028 doi: 10.25162/9783515105330 contributor: fullname: Hyden-Hanscho V. – ident: cit0052 doi: 10.1093/pastj/gtp044 – start-page: 33 volume-title: Fashioning the Early Modern: Dress, Textiles, and Innovation in Europe, 1500–1800 year: 2017 ident: cit0053 contributor: fullname: Styles J. – volume-title: Die französische Botschaft in Wien year: 1995 ident: cit0036 contributor: fullname: Lewin A. – volume-title: The Culture of Clothing: Dress and Fashion in the ʻancien Regime’ year: 1996 ident: cit0048 contributor: fullname: Roche D. – start-page: 1 volume-title: Global Gifts. The Material Culture of Diplomacy in Early Modern Eurasia year: 2018 ident: cit0012 contributor: fullname: Biedermann Z. – ident: cit0017 doi: 10.1179/0361211214Z.00000000028 – volume-title: Relations Veritables year: 1667 ident: cit0005 – volume-title: King of the World: The Life of Louis XIV year: 2019 ident: cit0039 contributor: fullname: Mansel P. – start-page: 241 volume-title: Bourbon–Habsburg–Oranien. Konkurrierende Modelle im dynastischen Europa um 1700 year: 2008 ident: cit0059 contributor: fullname: Ulbert J. – start-page: 13 volume-title: Searching for a Cultural Diplomacy year: 2010 ident: cit0021 doi: 10.2307/j.ctt9qd42q.6 contributor: fullname: Gienow-Hecht J. – ident: cit0022 doi: 10.1080/10632920903449019 – volume-title: Les relations entre la France et le Saint-Empire au XVIIe siècle year: 2001 ident: cit0037 contributor: fullname: Malettke K. – start-page: 157 volume-title: Materielle Grundlagen der Diplomatie. Schenken, Sammeln und Verhandeln in Spätmittelalter und Früher Neuzeit year: 2013 ident: cit0056 contributor: fullname: Thépaut-Cabasset C. – volume: 1 volume-title: Repertorium der diplomatischen Vertreter aller Länder seit dem Westfälischen Frieden year: 1936 ident: cit0013 contributor: fullname: Bittner L. – volume-title: Von der politischen zur kulturellen Hegemonie Frankreichs 1648–1789. Vol. 4 of Deutsch-Französische Geschichte year: 2008 ident: cit0016 contributor: fullname: Braun G. – volume-title: Die Kunst der Diplomatie. Auf den Spuren des kaiserlichen Botschafters Leopold Joseph Graf von Lamberg (1653–1706) year: 2010 ident: cit0044 contributor: fullname: Polleroß F. – volume-title: Allerneueste Nachricht vom Roemisch= Kaeyserl. Hofe year: 1732 ident: cit0003 contributor: fullname: Küchelbecker J. B. – volume-title: Die Ökonomie der Ehre. Der höfische Adel am Kaiserhof Karls VI. (1711–1740) year: 2003 ident: cit0042 contributor: fullname: Pečar A. |
RelatedPersons | Louis XIV, King of France (1638-1715) Leopold I (1640-1705) |
RelatedPersons_xml | – fullname: Louis XIV, King of France (1638-1715) – fullname: Leopold I (1640-1705) |
SSID | ssj0005650 |
Score | 2.2278388 |
Snippet | The annual fashion cycle of Louis XIV's court was the starting point of the French domination and economic supremacy in Europe's textile and fashion sector.... The annual fashion cycle of Louis XIV’s court was the starting point of the French domination and economic supremacy in Europe’s textile and fashion sector.... |
SourceID | proquest crossref informaworld |
SourceType | Aggregation Database Publisher |
StartPage | 485 |
SubjectTerms | consumption patterns Cultural diplomacy Cultural relations Culture Diplomatic & consular services Fashion France Habsburg monarchy Leopold I (1640-1705) Louis XIV, King of France (1638-1715) Politics Spouses Textiles |
Title | The cultural role of diplomats in an age of war: French fashion in Vienna under Leopold I |
URI | https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/0268117X.2021.1924991 https://www.proquest.com/docview/2548484398 |
Volume | 36 |
hasFullText | 1 |
inHoldings | 1 |
isFullTextHit | |
isPrint | |
link | http://utb.summon.serialssolutions.com/2.0.0/link/0/eLvHCXMwnV1Rb9MwELage-EFwRgwGMgPiJcqVezYaczbBEwFFV7YYPAS2bHNBqid1iJUfj13tpOmbAKGWkWV29pu7vOdfb37jpAnvnB6rIzMtOMM_2YsM6OQGVELw3leOcUwwfnN23JyJF4fy-NexjVmlyzNqPl5aV7J_0gV2kCumCV7Bcl2nUIDvAb5whUkDNd_lnFHndHGCdrTs29z2IeGQFdYvTq6BX7oUBDyALP7ToYeayjFKMf3GPKlQz3c8-HUYdEEm3ypX9bDvAtMTxh2cTJsoqHqELEC3ZVNwOaBKg1xsw4Jd7_qvkcBRITxe6KneHgJJ0sWStiDjQhtPJd5JsqYF9lqzkhdkhBS9NSgiGV4kkWVsa7tBWWdohthNBxshFMZhfNgrN-1SY79m9HqQglZy3Gauqmxmzp1c51sIUGiGJCt_cmLTx_WwT-lTN63-Evb3C5kXb9sPhu7lg1O2ws2PGxMDm-Rm-lEQfcjPG6Ta262TXYi_cuKPqXILaxD_ebVNrk3Tf7pBbwz7Si1F3fIR5AybcFEEUx07mkHJno6oxqen0MzgOkZjVCiCUr4gQglGqBEE5Toqx1ydPDy8PkkS3U3soZX5TJThrmKW2tVKZ1vXK6E5sp47apiLF0pwL5bk7vSFA1nnjs3ltJKZxmzYA6a4i4ZzOYzd59Qxvy4kb5iWhfCsFwZYZ2oGuN9IYWTu2TU3tf6LNKr1H-U6C5R_btfL4Nfy8ciNHXxl-_utaKq0ype1ByO7PAoVPXgqnN5SG6sl88eGSzPv7tHsEVdmscJb78A6MKI7w |
link.rule.ids | 314,780,784,27924,27925,59651,60440 |
linkProvider | Library Specific Holdings |
linkToHtml | http://utb.summon.serialssolutions.com/2.0.0/link/0/eLvHCXMwpV1NT9wwELUQHNpLaYG2UEp9QL1lu3bibNxbhVgFCByqpdqeLDseAyrKot0gRH99Z_JBoRXigJJTHEeJPf54kzdvGNsNMdiRdiqyIAX9Zkwjp0kZ0SZOymEGWlCA8_FJmp8mh1M1vRcLQ7RKwtChFYpo5moa3OSM7ilxXxA3UHzkFOGdFIMGQlAA-4rSqcLBuTL5fpjnf4keqeo8LYiXsFYfx_PYgx6sUA_0S_-br5tFaLzKyv71W-7Jr8F17Qbl73-UHZ_3fa_Zq26Pyr-1RvWGLUG1xjZaQZFb_pmTWq1tMgLfrrF3RefxXGBJcSfSvFhnP9EEea_swYnGyGeB-4uryxlukxf8ouIWz7Pm8o2df-VjCj0854ESPM0quuEH8dEsp0i3OS-AMjp4frDBTsf7k7086jI5RKXM0jrSTkAmvffYQRBKQExppXbBAuJjBWmCK4Z3Q0hdXEoRJMBIKa_AC-Fxginjt2y5mlXwnnEhwqhUIRPWxokTQ-0SD0lWuhBilYDaZIO-98xVK9hhRK-D2rWroXY1XbtuMn2_j03deEpCm9bExE_U3e4NwnRjf2EQcmd4xDrbesajP7EX-eS4MMXBydEH9pKKGp5lss2W6_k1fMS9UO12OmP_A2Kg_VE |
linkToPdf | http://utb.summon.serialssolutions.com/2.0.0/link/0/eLvHCXMwpV1Nb9QwEB1VW6niAm0pUNpSHxC3LGsnzsbcELDalqVCqEXlZNnxGCpQdrVJhcqvx5M4LaWqeqiSUxxbjj3-eM6bNwAvfYpmrKxMDApOvxnzxCpSRjSZFWJUoOLk4PzpKJ-eZIensmcT1pFWSRjad0IR7VxNg3vhfM-Iex1gA7lHngZ0J_iwRRDkv76aU_jkAawefzmcTq94HrmMBy0BLoVcvRvPbQVdW6CuyZfemK7bNWjyCGxf-4568nN43thh-ec_Ycd7fd46PIw7VPa2M6kNWMFqE7Y6OZEL9oqRVq1p4wFfbMLTWTzvrEPK7FKiuX4M34IBsl7XgxGJkc09c2eLX_OwSa7ZWcVMuL-3j3-b5Rs2IcfDH8xTeKd5RS98JTaaYeTntmQzpHgOjh1swcnkw_G7aRLjOCSlKPImUZZjIZxzKpfoSwyI0ghlvcGAjiXmWVgvnB1hbtNScC8Qx1I6iY5zF6aXMn0Cg2pe4TNgnPtxKX3BjUkzy0fKZg6zorTepzJDuQ3DvvP0opPr0LxXQY3tqqlddWzXbVD_drFu2nMS3wU10ekdeXd7e9Bx5Nc6AO4iXKkqnt-j6H1Y-_x-omcHRx934AGltCTLbBcGzfIc98JGqLEvoqn_BUKu-_U |
openUrl | ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&ctx_enc=info%3Aofi%2Fenc%3AUTF-8&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fsummon.serialssolutions.com&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Ajournal&rft.genre=article&rft.atitle=The+cultural+role+of+diplomats+in+an+age+of+war%3A+French+fashion+in+Vienna+under+Leopold+I&rft.jtitle=The+Seventeenth+century&rft.au=Hyden-Hanscho%2C+Veronika&rft.date=2021-05-04&rft.issn=0268-117X&rft.eissn=2050-4616&rft.volume=36&rft.issue=3&rft.spage=485&rft.epage=507&rft_id=info:doi/10.1080%2F0268117X.2021.1924991&rft.externalDBID=n%2Fa&rft.externalDocID=10_1080_0268117X_2021_1924991 |
thumbnail_l | http://covers-cdn.summon.serialssolutions.com/index.aspx?isbn=/lc.gif&issn=0268-117X&client=summon |
thumbnail_m | http://covers-cdn.summon.serialssolutions.com/index.aspx?isbn=/mc.gif&issn=0268-117X&client=summon |
thumbnail_s | http://covers-cdn.summon.serialssolutions.com/index.aspx?isbn=/sc.gif&issn=0268-117X&client=summon |