Classification of Coasts
The simplest description of a given coast requires a minimum of three terms, embracing the following: (1) material (hard/soft; soluble or otherwise); (2) agencies (erosive/constructive; physical, chemical, biological, and geographic setting [latitude, exposure, fetch]), and (3) historical factors (t...
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Published in | Journal of coastal research Vol. 20; no. 1; pp. 155 - 165 |
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Main Author | |
Format | Journal Article |
Language | English |
Published |
Lawrence, KS
Coastal Education and Research Foundation (CERF)
2004
Coastal Education and Research Foundation |
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Abstract | The simplest description of a given coast requires a minimum of three terms, embracing the following: (1) material (hard/soft; soluble or otherwise); (2) agencies (erosive/constructive; physical, chemical, biological, and geographic setting [latitude, exposure, fetch]), and (3) historical factors (time scale: geotectonic, glacioisostatic, eustatic, steric, anthropic). Deductive reasoning based on instrumental data such as tide gauges frequently lead to misleading conclusions, in that most are located in the northern hemisphere (land-dominated), near river mouths (variable runoff), sediment compaction, crustal lowering, coriolis effect of geostrophic current variation, and excessively short data spans (< 100 yr). Climatic oscillation influences sea level on all scales from ENSO (El Niño Southern Oscillation) and NAO (North Atlantic Oscillation) up to 1500 yr or more. Satellite observations furnish only the briefest “snap-shots.” Classifications based on perceived “relative” relationships such as submergence or emergence are useful as generalizations, but only when provided with the time scale. Similar constraints apply to subsidence and uplift, and always subject to the three fundamental criteria. |
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AbstractList | The simplest description of a given coast requires a minimum of three terms, embracing the following: (1) material (hard/soft; soluble or otherwise); (2) agencies (erosive/constructive; physical, chemical, biological, and geographic setting [latitude, exposure, fetch]), and (3) historical factors (time scale: geotectonic, glacioisostatic, eustatic, steric, anthropic). Deductive reasoning based on instrumental data such as tide gauges frequently lead to misleading conclusions, in that most are located in the northern hemisphere (land-dominated), near river mouths (variable runoff), sediment compaction, crustal lowering, coriolis effect of geostrophic current variation, and excessively short data spans ( < 100 yr). Climatic oscillation influences sea level on all scales from ENSO (El Nino Southern Oscillation) and NAO (North Atlantic Oscillation) up to 1500 yr or more. Satellite observations furnish only the briefest 'snap-shots.' Classifications based on perceived 'relative' relationships such as submergence or emergence are useful as generalizations, but only when provided with the time scale. Similar constraints apply to subsidence and uplift, and always subject to the three fundamental criteria. The simplest description of a given coast requires a minimum of three terms, embracing the following: (1) material (hard/soft; soluble or otherwise); (2) agencies (erosive/constructive; physical, chemical, biological, and geographic setting [latitude, exposure, fetch]), and (3) historical factors (time scale: geotectonic, glacioisostatic, eustatic, steric, anthropic). Deductive reasoning based on instrumental data such as tide gauges frequently lead to misleading conclusions, in that most are located in the northern hemisphere (land-dominated), near river mouths (variable runoff), sediment compaction, crustal lowering, coriolis effect of geostrophic current variation, and excessively short data spans (< 100 yr). Climatic oscillation influences sea level on all scales from ENSO (El Niño Southern Oscillation) and NAO (North Atlantic Oscillation) up to 1500 yr or more. Satellite observations furnish only the briefest “snap-shots.” Classifications based on perceived “relative” relationships such as submergence or emergence are useful as generalizations, but only when provided with the time scale. Similar constraints apply to subsidence and uplift, and always subject to the three fundamental criteria. |
Author | Fairbridge, Rhodes W. |
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Cites_doi | 10.1191/0959683602hl532rp 10.1016/0025-3227(65)90025-3 10.1002/gj.3350040208 10.1086/624584 10.1086/627583 10.1016/0033-5894(76)90025-9 10.2307/1789022 10.1016/0012-8252(69)90079-8 10.1098/rsta.1975.0051 10.2110/pec.92.48.0009 10.1177/030913339401800104 10.1016/0033-5894(74)90007-6 10.3406/geo.1961.15487 10.2307/20026356 10.1126/science.264.5155.46 10.1038/268413a0 10.2307/1789287 10.1017/S0003598X00030702 10.1038/226536b0 |
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Keywords | ocean currents submergence cliffs world ocean scale factor Atlantic Ocean latitude global littoral erosion cohesive materials cohesionless materials El Nino Northern Hemisphere time factor subsidence compaction oscillations satellites tectonic controls eustacy emergence runoff classification tides coastal environment materials uplifts Pacific Ocean landform evolution sea level |
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StartPage | 155 |
SubjectTerms | Beaches Boulders Cliffs Coasts Coral reefs Earth sciences Earth, ocean, space Exact sciences and technology Geology Geomorphology Geomorphology, landform evolution Marine Marine and continental quaternary Research Papers Sand Sea level Seas Surficial geology |
Title | Classification of Coasts |
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