Improvements in spectral wave modeling in tidal inlet seas
The performance of the spectral wind wave model SWAN in tidal inlet seas was assessed on the basis of extensive wave measurements conducted in the Amelander Zeegat tidal inlet and the Dutch Eastern Wadden Sea, as well as relevant data from other inlets, lakes, estuaries and beaches. We found that th...
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| Published in | Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans Vol. 117; no. C11 |
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| Main Authors | , , , , , , |
| Format | Journal Article |
| Language | English |
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Blackwell Publishing Ltd
01.11.2012
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| Subjects | |
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| Abstract | The performance of the spectral wind wave model SWAN in tidal inlet seas was assessed on the basis of extensive wave measurements conducted in the Amelander Zeegat tidal inlet and the Dutch Eastern Wadden Sea, as well as relevant data from other inlets, lakes, estuaries and beaches. We found that the 2006 default SWAN model (version 40.51), the starting point of the investigation, performed reasonably well for measured storm conditions, but three aspects required further attention. First, over the near‐horizontal tidal flats, the computed ratio of integral wave height over water depth showed an apparent upper limit using the default depth‐limited wave breaking formulation and breaker parameter, resulting in an underprediction of wave heights. This problem has been largely solved using a new breaker formulation. The second aspect concerns wave‐current interaction, specifically the wave age effect on waves generated in ambient current, and a proposed enhanced dissipation in negative current gradients. Third, the variance density of lower‐frequency wind waves from the North Sea penetrating through the inlets into the Wadden Sea was underpredicted. This was improved by reducing the bottom friction dissipation relative to that of the default model. After a combined calibration, these improvements have resulted in a relative bias reduction in Hm0 from −3% to −1%, in Tm−1,0 from −7% to −3%, and in Tm01 from −6% to −2%, and consistent reductions in scatter, compared to the 2006 default model.
Key Points
An extensive data set for wave model evaluation was collected in the Wadden Sea
The wave model SWAN generally performs well in tidal inlet seas, with exceptions
Depth‐induced breaking, wave‐current interaction and propagation were improved |
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| AbstractList | The performance of the spectral wind wave model SWAN in tidal inlet seas was assessed on the basis of extensive wave measurements conducted in the Amelander Zeegat tidal inlet and the Dutch Eastern Wadden Sea, as well as relevant data from other inlets, lakes, estuaries and beaches. We found that the 2006 default SWAN model (version 40.51), the starting point of the investigation, performed reasonably well for measured storm conditions, but three aspects required further attention. First, over the near‐horizontal tidal flats, the computed ratio of integral wave height over water depth showed an apparent upper limit using the default depth‐limited wave breaking formulation and breaker parameter, resulting in an underprediction of wave heights. This problem has been largely solved using a new breaker formulation. The second aspect concerns wave‐current interaction, specifically the wave age effect on waves generated in ambient current, and a proposed enhanced dissipation in negative current gradients. Third, the variance density of lower‐frequency wind waves from the North Sea penetrating through the inlets into the Wadden Sea was underpredicted. This was improved by reducing the bottom friction dissipation relative to that of the default model. After a combined calibration, these improvements have resulted in a relative bias reduction in Hm0 from −3% to −1%, in Tm−1,0 from −7% to −3%, and in Tm01 from −6% to −2%, and consistent reductions in scatter, compared to the 2006 default model.
Key Points
An extensive data set for wave model evaluation was collected in the Wadden Sea
The wave model SWAN generally performs well in tidal inlet seas, with exceptions
Depth‐induced breaking, wave‐current interaction and propagation were improved The performance of the spectral wind wave model SWAN in tidal inlet seas was assessed on the basis of extensive wave measurements conducted in the Amelander Zeegat tidal inlet and the Dutch Eastern Wadden Sea, as well as relevant data from other inlets, lakes, estuaries and beaches. We found that the 2006 default SWAN model (version 40.51), the starting point of the investigation, performed reasonably well for measured storm conditions, but three aspects required further attention. First, over the near‐horizontal tidal flats, the computed ratio of integral wave height over water depth showed an apparent upper limit using the default depth‐limited wave breaking formulation and breaker parameter, resulting in an underprediction of wave heights. This problem has been largely solved using a new breaker formulation. The second aspect concerns wave‐current interaction, specifically the wave age effect on waves generated in ambient current, and a proposed enhanced dissipation in negative current gradients. Third, the variance density of lower‐frequency wind waves from the North Sea penetrating through the inlets into the Wadden Sea was underpredicted. This was improved by reducing the bottom friction dissipation relative to that of the default model. After a combined calibration, these improvements have resulted in a relative bias reduction in H m0 from −3% to −1%, in T m−1,0 from −7% to −3%, and in T m01 from −6% to −2%, and consistent reductions in scatter, compared to the 2006 default model. Key Points An extensive data set for wave model evaluation was collected in the Wadden Sea The wave model SWAN generally performs well in tidal inlet seas, with exceptions Depth‐induced breaking, wave‐current interaction and propagation were improved The performance of the spectral wind wave model SWAN in tidal inlet seas was assessed on the basis of extensive wave measurements conducted in the Amelander Zeegat tidal inlet and the Dutch Eastern Wadden Sea, as well as relevant data from other inlets, lakes, estuaries and beaches. We found that the 2006 default SWAN model (version 40.51), the starting point of the investigation, performed reasonably well for measured storm conditions, but three aspects required further attention. First, over the near-horizontal tidal flats, the computed ratio of integral wave height over water depth showed an apparent upper limit using the default depth-limited wave breaking formulation and breaker parameter, resulting in an underprediction of wave heights. This problem has been largely solved using a new breaker formulation. The second aspect concerns wave-current interaction, specifically the wave age effect on waves generated in ambient current, and a proposed enhanced dissipation in negative current gradients. Third, the variance density of lower-frequency wind waves from the North Sea penetrating through the inlets into the Wadden Sea was underpredicted. This was improved by reducing the bottom friction dissipation relative to that of the default model. After a combined calibration, these improvements have resulted in a relative bias reduction in H sub(m0) from -3% to -1%, in T sub(m-1,0) from -7% to -3%, and in T sub(m01) from -6% to -2%, and consistent reductions in scatter, compared to the 2006 default model. Key Points * An extensive data set for wave model evaluation was collected in the Wadden Sea * The wave model SWAN generally performs well in tidal inlet seas, with exceptions * Depth-induced breaking, wave-current interaction and propagation were improved |
| Author | Peters, H. van Vledder, G. Ph van Nieuwkoop, J. C. C. Groeneweg, J. van Dongeren, A. R. van der Westhuysen, A. J. Gautier, C. |
| Author_xml | – sequence: 1 givenname: A. J. surname: van der Westhuysen fullname: van der Westhuysen, A. J. email: andre.vanderwesthuysen@noaa.gov, andre.vanderwesthuysen@noaa.gov organization: Deltares, Delft, Netherlands – sequence: 2 givenname: A. R. surname: van Dongeren fullname: van Dongeren, A. R. organization: Deltares, Delft, Netherlands – sequence: 3 givenname: J. surname: Groeneweg fullname: Groeneweg, J. organization: Deltares, Delft, Netherlands – sequence: 4 givenname: G. Ph surname: van Vledder fullname: van Vledder, G. Ph organization: Alkyon, ARCADIS Nederland BV, Emmeloord, Netherlands – sequence: 5 givenname: H. surname: Peters fullname: Peters, H. organization: Rijkswaterstaat Data-ICT-Dienst, Delft, Netherlands – sequence: 6 givenname: C. surname: Gautier fullname: Gautier, C. organization: Deltares, Delft, Netherlands – sequence: 7 givenname: J. C. C. surname: van Nieuwkoop fullname: van Nieuwkoop, J. C. C. organization: Deltares, Delft, Netherlands |
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| Cites_doi | 10.1029/2006JC003924 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2009.01.012 10.1175/1520-0485(1994)024<0917:IFHMOT>2.0.CO;2 10.1175/1520-0485(2000)030<2723:SEBOBW>2.0.CO;2 10.1029/97JC01581 10.1016/S0378-3839(96)00006-3 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2012.03.002 10.1016/j.cageo.2009.07.009 10.1017/S0022112062000373 10.1175/1520-0485(1994)024<0994:WWAMBB>2.0.CO;2 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2006.08.006 10.1029/JC088iC10p05925 10.1029/JZ069i024p05181 10.1175/1520-0485(1985)015<1378:CAPOTN>2.0.CO;2 10.1016/0378-3839(94)90014-0 10.1175/1520-0485(2003)033<1274:POASDS>2.0.CO;2 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2010.11.006 10.1016/S0378-3839(03)00023-1 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2004.12.006 10.1175/1520-0485(1983)013<1653:OTBBGA>2.0.CO;2 10.1029/1998JC900123 10.1080/00401706.1978.10489610 10.1016/0029-8018(93)90002-Y 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2007.10.002 10.1029/2005JC003398 10.1175/1520-0485(1984)014<1271:OTEOAF>2.0.CO;2 10.1029/98JC02622 10.1029/JC090iC05p09159 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2012.05.001 10.1016/0378-3839(95)00007-X 10.1016/0378-3839(89)90031-8 10.1029/2009JC005433 |
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| Copyright | 2012. American Geophysical Union. All Rights Reserved. |
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| Title | Improvements in spectral wave modeling in tidal inlet seas |
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